Chapter 4 – Basic Care
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The most important thing you can do to help your budgie feel comfortable in his new home is to buy and set up the cage before you bring him home. After traveling in a dark cardboard box or small travel cage, your bird may be nervous and upset, and he will welcome the comfort of a cage well equipped with fresh water, the food he is accustomed to, a couple of toys, and a few perches of various diameters. When you get home, put your budgie into his new cage, and leave him untouched for a day or two as he gets used to the new cage and the sounds around it. A few times each day, approach the cage slowly, talk to your budgie, and make eye contact. For the first couple of days, don't try to put your fingers or hands into the cage, just let his cage be his castle!
The Cage
Before buying the cage, consider not only its size but also its construction. Not every cage will work for a budgie, and not every pet store that sells budgies also sells cages appropriate for budgies.
CAGE SIZE
The cage will be the most expensive item you purchase for your budgie, so you will want to do it only once. Plan to buy a quality cage that is safe, will last, and is as large as you can afford--and will fit in your home. A single budgie needs a cage that measures a minimum of eighteen inches long, wide, and tall, although a cage at least twenty-four inches long will allow even more room for your budgie to roam. If you think you may purchase a second budgie in the future, consider twenty-four inches the minimum length, and go up to thirty inches if you can. If you buy a large cage, be sure the bars are spaced no more than a half-inch apart. Otherwise, curious budgies may try to work their heads in between the bars and get stuck.
CAGE SHAPE AND CONSTRUCTION
A relatively low, long cage will suit a budgie's ground-feeding habits, and a tall one will offer plenty of climbing opportunities. Budgies don't need ornamentation on their cages; fancy scrollwork and turrets are just traps for a budgie's feet and may even mask weak spots in the cage construction. Parrots, including budgies, need many horizontal bars on the sides of the cages because they use their feet and beaks to grasp the bars and climb around. Cages meant for canaries and other finches have few horizontal bars because these birds don't climb the way parrots do, so avoid canary cages. Round cages also are designed for canaries and are not suitable for budgies, who like to have corners in which to retreat. The cage should be designed to be placed on a firm foundation, not hung from the ceiling or a stand; budgies don't like swaying cages.
Many cages sold are actually dangerous for your bird, so check their construction carefully. Make sure all weld spots are firm and preferably out of the budgie's reach. If there is any lead in the weld and the bird chews it, he will quickly suffer from heavy metal poisoning, leading to death. Cages made of chrome or brass can also be dangerous; if the metal flakes off when chewed, the budgie will ingest the toxic metal.
Budgies are active birds, and they will take advantage of climbing and swinging opportunities if given the right perches and swings.
Avoid any cage with bars covered in cheap rubber or plastic that could be chewed off and swallowed. These cages are usually small and inexpensive--and you get what you pay for. The same is true of cages made of galvanized wire; they are low in cost but can be high in metal toxicity.
Instead, look for either a stainless steel cage or a wrought iron cage with powder-coated paint. This type of paint creates a durable, long-lasting barrier between the metal and your budgie's beak. An epoxy coating is another safe way to cover cage bars.
Cages made of Plexiglas or heavy acrylic plastics on the top and two sides are also available. These cages may become warm in the summer and a bit moist during humid weather, but otherwise they last forever (but take care during cleaning, as acrylics scratch easily). Because a budgie wants to climb on all four sides of the cage, however, this type is perhaps more suitable as a temporary cage to be used to take your budgie to the veterinarian or to isolate him during a spell of ill health.
A well-socialized budgie will relish the time spent with its owner.
The cage must have a securely fitted door that is large enough to allow the bird (and your hand, if necessary) to enter and leave easily. A small door will make cleaning the cage difficult and is likely to bend the budgie's tail feathers when he enters or exits the cage.
Budgies are intelligent birds and are more powerful than you may think. They can attack a simple door latch and either damage it or release it. Doors that hinge from the bottom and latch at the top are the most dangerous; if the bird opens the latch, the door will pop open, and the bird can escape. Examine the latch carefully, and make sure your bird will not be able to open the door. If in doubt, use a small padlock made of nontoxic materials to be certain that the cage stays shut and that your bird isn't harmed by chewing on it.
Most cages today have one of two types of bottoms: a plastic base that serves as the cage bottom and that may have a removable tray; or a grate with a tray underneath that slides in and out. Of the two types, the second is preferred because the cage is sturdier and easier to clean.
The bottom of the cage can be lined with paper, either heavy unprinted paper or newspaper, for easy cleaning. The paper should be absorbent, of course, to handle the liquid in the droppings; paper towels are another good choice. Some people like the look of bird-safe substrates made of corncob or recycled paper, but these are optional. Never use cat litter, which is extremely dusty and may cause harm if ingested.
Cage Placement
Place your budgie's cage on a solid, immobile surface, such as a table or a special cage stand. Don't use an upright rod with hanging hooks to suspend the cage. Such hooks seldom are truly secure, and they allow the cage to move when people walk by, which is sure to disturb or even panic your budgie. Select a table that places the top of the cage at about eye level; budgies don't like people to approach them from above, the way predatory birds would attack them. Many owners believe that a budgie feels more secure if the back of the cage is placed in front of a wall or other unmovable surface, so at least one side is protected from what the budgie may view as approaching predators.
Where should you place the cage? A budgie is part of your family and wants to be part of the action going on around him--he doesn't want to be in an empty bedroom all day. Look for an area where there is opportunity for human contact from morning through evening, where people going by can talk to the bird and interact with him. A bird in a neglected room becomes a neglected bird.
Keep 'em Cozy
Avoid direct drafts from air conditioners and partially opened windows during cold weather. Avoid positioning your budgie directly in front of your heating system as well. An outside door that is opened and closed many times a day during cold winter months can drastically change the room's temperature.
Unfortunately, the kitchen, one of the most popular rooms in the home, is also one of the most dangerous. The list of things in a kitchen that can kill or harm a budgie seems endless--everything from a hot stove and hot water faucets to common kitchen chemicals such as soaps, cleansers, and cooking sprays. Cooking in a pan with a nonstick coating can release vapors that quickly affect the respiratory system of a bird and cause death.
Place the cage where your budgie will be able to hear and see the activity in the house. The cage should be in a draft-free area and somewhere where it is quiet at night.
People once believed that a nonstick surface had to be heated above five hundred degrees Fahrenheit before releasing the dangerous vapors of the synthetic polymer polytetrafluoroethylene (simply called PTFE), but there have been documented cases in which normal heating over an extended period caused the death of pet birds. Why take the risk?
Like this bird, your budgie will enjoy time spent out of the cage. Just make sure the decision is yours--and not your bird's--by ensuring that the cage door fits securely!
The family room is a good place if you are sure you can keep the room quiet in the late evening when the bird needs to sleep. Budgies don't like loud, sudden noises, but they can get used to a lot of normal background noise over time. Perhaps a home office, where you work each day and can take a few minutes out of your schedule every few hours for some one-on-one time, might work best; but don't neglect the bird when you aren't working.
Cage Accessories
A cage is just a cage without the proper accessories, which turn it into a home for your budgie. Some of the following accessories will probably come with the cage you purchase, but don't hesitate to upgrade your budgie's humble home.
FOOD CUPS
Many cages sold today have openings, or ports, in the sides where small plastic food cups can be inserted into the cage from the outside (so you don't have to open the door). Avoid cages that leave space around the food cups where a budgie could get stuck. Check the fit of the food cups, and make sure they are tight. Then check the type of plastic the cups are made of--avoid flimsy cups your budgie can easily chew, as virtually all plastics are dangerous to budgies if swallowed. If you are unsure about the safety of the cups that came with the cage, replace the cups right away.
The best and certainly safest choice for budgie food cups are those made of stainless steel. This material is resistant to chewing, does not rust, is hard to dent even when dropped from heights, and lasts through thousands of cleanings. Because inexpensive plastics are porous, they absorb stains and often retain a slimy film coating even after washing. Some very hard, thick plastics are better and are certainly durable enough for a budgie's small beak. Whether you buy steel or heavy plastic cups, you may want to buy a few extra for replacements and to use when you are cleaning the original cups.
Seed Guards
Most cages today come with wide strips of rigid plastic or aluminum, about two to three inches high, that fit outside the cage just above the rim of the bottom pan. These seed guards help keep seed hulls and pellet crumbs inside the cage and prevent the droppings from escaping. Some cage designs have fixed guards, whereas others allow you to remove the guards for regular cleaning and to replace them when needed.
Water Tubes
You may find a cage equipped with what is known as a sipper: a container for water with a stopper that holds a curved metal tube containing a ball bearing. The bird touches the tip of the tube with his tongue, which pushes back the ball bearing and allows a few drops of water to flow. Such sippers are widely used for small pet mammals, but they are not as commonly used for birds. Sippers must be located completely outside the cage, with only the end of the tube extending inside, or the budgie will chew through the rubber or plastic stopper. Sippers are easy to keep clean, since droppings and food crumbs cannot enter them, but they still need to be cleaned and refilled every day; you will also need to check each day to be sure your bird has not jammed the tip of the tube with a seed or other piece of food. If you try a sipper, be sure to also offer water in a cup each day, and pay attention to your bird's drinking patterns until you are certain he is drinking from the sipper.
If the cage has no cup ports, look for stainless steel cups with holders that can be securely attached to the bars of the cage. Many cups of this type fit into metal harnesses that screw onto the cage bars. Make sure the harnesses are not made of cheap iron coated with chrome that can flake off and become a health hazard. Some thick plastic cups have stems that fit through the bars and are held in place by heavy nuts on the other side; these cups are sturdy and not easily chewed by budgies.
Each budgie in a cage will need their own food cup to prevent squabbles. Never place food cups under perches where the birds' droppings could land in the cups. And budgies prefer to feed near and on the ground, so don't place the food cups too high in the cage.
WATER CUPS
The same guidelines that apply to food cups also apply to water cups. In fact, the two types are interchangeable, and stainless steel is always best. Again, position the cups so there is little chance that droppings, food crumbs, or seed hulls will fall into the water--the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. Place cups where they are easily accessible for changing, cleaning, and refilling twice a day.
PERCHES
Some cages come equipped with one or two perches made of soft wood dowels of uniform size, roughly half an inch in diameter. There is nothing wrong with these perches, but budgies like a variety of perch sizes so they can stretch and relax the muscles and ligaments in their toes. Remove these dowels and offer your budgie at least three perches of varying diameters and materials.
Look for perches made of natural hardwoods, such as apple, manzanita, hazel, elm, or willow. These woods are harmless to budgies when chewed, and natural branches (which have been carefully sanitized and are not treated with preservatives or pesticides of any type) give a budgie a variety of diameters and shapes for comfortable perching. Your local pet store probably carries a variety of perches, and many online pet bird supply stores have a wide range as well.
You can make your own perches by cutting a length of branch and making slots in the ends to fit the bars of the cage. Be sure to correctly identify and select one of the safe woods mentioned above--never use conifers such as pine or yew, which can be toxic. Also avoid apricot, cherry, peach, prune, plum, and nectarine, which can be toxic as well. Soak the branch for an hour in a solution of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water, rinse it thoroughly, and then soak it in clear water for three days, changing the water every twelve hours. Be sure there is absolutely no smell of chlorine from the perch and let it dry completely before putting it in your budgie's cage. And never use bleach near your bird because even the fumes can be toxic.
Purchase perches in various sizes to give your budgie's feet exercise.
Position the perches both high and low in the cage, and put one at an angle across a corner. Again, never put perches over or near food and water cups, and don't let them overlap if you have two budgies in a cage (the bird underneath will become covered with droppings during the night). Expect your budgie to chew up his perches on a regular basis, and be prepared to replace them as needed.
Some people use perches specially manufactured to control the growth of their budgies' nails. The idea is that a rough perch helps manicure the tips of the nails and keeps them from growing too long. Having one of these types of perches is fine, but be sure it isn't your budgie's only option in case it causes your budgie's feet discomfort. Avoid sandpaper covers for perches; they may cause raw, infected areas on the feet. Plan to trim your budgie's nails on a regular basis instead of trying to use a perch to do the job. (See chapter 7 for information on nail trimming.)
BATHING SUPPLIES
Budgies love to splash around in shallow water. After getting totally wet, they preen, or groom, their feathers by running their beaks lengthwise down each feather and putting each barb back into place. At the same time, they spread a waterproofing oil from their preen (uropygial) glands over each feather.
Pet stores sell bathing cups for budgies and other small birds. These are shallow plastic cups with hoods designed to be placed in the cage for a few minutes a few times a week, or as often as the birds enjoy bathing. Put lukewarm water in the cup, put the cup in the cage, and let the budgie splash for a few minutes; then remove the cup, and let the budgie dry in a warm, draft-free area.
You may find that your budgie likes to bathe in his water cup, and this is perfectly okay as long as you check the cup a few times each day to be sure he hasn't splashed out all his drinking water. You can also offer your bird a shallow bowl or a plastic container similar to one you use for leftovers. Whatever you choose, be sure the container is shallow enough for your budgie to easily step up into and out of. You could also place your budgie under a trickling kitchen or bathroom faucet, but both of these rooms are often full of so many other dangers that it probably isn't worth the risk.
Some budgies ignore bathing dishes, but they will roll around in wet lettuce leaves. Try placing some on top of your budgie's cage at bath time.
Cage Cleaning Routines
You need to tend to the cage daily: twice a day (morning and early evening) to replace the food and water, and once to spot-clean the cage. Use a small cleaning brush or moist paper towel to remove droppings and loose feathers. (You will quickly discover that budgies are perpetually losing and replacing feathers during molting.) Remove and replace the paper on the cage bottom or tray. Clean all food and water cups with hot water and a drop of dishwashing liquid; rinse them thoroughly so no soap remains. You can wash your budgie's dishes in the dishwasher, but make sure there is no soap residue.
Every other day, clean the perches with a scrub brush dampened with warm water. Your local pet store carries scrub brushes that are specially made for cleaning the cage and perches. Every other week or so, remove the perches and give them a thorough cleaning. Scrub them with a bird-safe cleaning solution purchased from a pet store or from your veterinarian; then rinse and dry them. (Never use common household cleaners around your bird or on anything your bird may touch or chew. The likelihood of poisoning, either from ingestion or from fumes, is very high.) If you have two sets of perches, place one set in the cage while you're cleaning the other.
If your cage is too large for your kitchen sink, take it outdoors weekly and give it a thorough cleaning.
Once a week, clean the entire cage by wiping down and scrubbing the bars, the tray, and the floor grate. Remove the majority of the debris with warm water and a scrub brush, and follow up with another round using a bird-safe cleaning solution on any tough spots. Finally, wipe down the cage with damp paper towels (or any clean, damp cloth) to remove any remaining cleaning solution. During this weekly cleaning, move your budgie to his travel cage or playgym so he isn't stressed.