I slept solidly. In fact, right through until I was woken by a family of loony noisy swifts, soaring and swooping in a wild revelry of non-stop tweetering craziness telling me to get out of bed and start the day. From my balcony, I watched them skimming the road in wide celebratory curves climbing up to peaks until they just had to drop again and maybe join some others, bathing in the mud of a puddle that has appeared from nowhere overnight. A good day to you all, my dear nutty neighbours.
Last night when I got home, Maria and Auntie were still sitting in the doorway making banter and giggling while watching people going in and out of the basilica next door.
'How were the card games, Auntie? No cheating, I hope?'
She seemed a little stronger, 'Oh, I think they let me win. You know what they're like.'
Maria took Auntie's hand and kissed it gently, 'This woman is mad. She takes everybody's money then gives it back. Crazy!' Yet Maria looked sad to me, 'So, Mr. Godfrey sir, do you like our village?' Her smile was confident but her eyes were shadowed like the dusk.
'Oh, of course. It's a special place which is why I hate to think of tourism taking control.'
'Me too. I used to think the tourism would save the village but now I know it would kill it. We have to fight to keep our Sophia live. It's what everybody wants.'
'Tell me, what are these others doing in the village, the ones who all seem to wear maroon shorts? They're an aggressive bunch. They seem to want to upset everyone. Who are they?'
'Not local Greeks, that's for sure. They are the crew of boat that comes here often. We don't know for sure what they want but we do know they bring the evil eye.'
Auntie shot me a glance, 'Aaaagh! They’re horrible people. Pantelis hated them here. I can't wait to get out of their way and down to the town where I can sit in the shade with good old Irene Valeska before I leave for Cornwall. Dear Irene and my Pantelis were like brother and sister, even went to the same school. It seems Pantelis fancied her like mad and would flirt with her quite openly, and then someone in their class said she was lesbian and there was quite a bit of bullying until he stepped in and got everyone to calm down. When we got married she was his best and closest friend so she was at his side with the ring and ever since we've kept in touch. She's a potter and makes antique copies for the tourists. They're very popular. Look so real she has to label them 'Repros' or something. Actually, I might invite her back to Trevean for a holiday. She works so hard, I'm sure she could use one.'
It seemed to me the brick-heads were there for a purpose. That was clear. They were sailors and sailors don't spend their time away from sea unless they have to and I wasn't convinced I wanted to find out why. Once the villa was on the market, there'd be little reason for either of us to be involved, so for safety's sake we might best leave well alone.
Before I went to my bed, Auntie and I had stood arms entwined, looking up at their wedding photograph again. It was one of those colour-tinted monochromes with a sparkling sea in the background and in the sky someone had painted two white doves. She reached up and kissed my cheek before she went to her room and said, 'You know Godfrey, I'm so pleased you're here. Before you came everything was getting to me, you know, my leaving Pani's island to those nasty people, it was becoming quite a strain and making me quite sad. All too exhausting for me. I needed some family support and you brought it all this way and for that I am grateful. Thanks lad.' She patted my bottom, 'Now, don't stay up too late, get yourself off to bed.' I was still her little boy, and I was glad.
But that morning it was not just the baby swallows or the racket from the cicadas in the trees at Virgenia's but the flies - the flies were everywhere - zizzing around like coffee driven mopeds, tickling and irritating whenever they came in to land - yes, it was going to be a hot one. Over against the face of the mountain the sun was grilling everything not under cover. Our world had slowed almost to a stop.
Virgenia's usually opened at six to cater for the fishermen and at that time of day there was no other place for breakfast. Sitting there on the veranda in the early morning sun, enjoying a slow, slow breakfast of yoghurt and honey and admiring the distant horizon eased me gently into the day.
As a child I could never quite grasp the proper time to eat yoghurt; I didn't know whether it was for breakfast or dessert and my mad grandma liked yoghurt with ice cream after every meal no matter what time of day. I remember one Christmas when I tried to buy some in the village Pasty Shoppe, Mrs. Uren, the owner, thought it was hilarious,
'What? Yoghurt in winter? My dear life, you are so weird, my 'andsome.'
Inside Virgenia's it was peaceful and quiet with the faintest whisper of a breeze but it was no match for the growing heat. I asked Nikos if it ever rained in summer,
'Of course. Nothing stays the same, not even the weather and probably today it will change. I can smell it.'
I laughed, not knowing whether to believe him or not. A couple of anxious visitors asked Nikos if there was a bank or Bureau de Change nearby and at what times were the buses to Stephanos town. They were agitated. I sipped my drink and watched the couple flapping. The girl's hair was crew-cut and vermillion and Nikos couldn't take his eyes off her. The girl's man had drooped into silence upon discovering his tour company had gone bust leaving them confused and disappointed.
He caught my eye and moaned, 'I've been here just two short days and already I want to go home but I flippin' well can't. We're marooned.'
'It's like the weather - it'll pass,' I said. 'As I was told by my father once, “Greece always offers something special to the tired and bruised traveller, but you have to relax to know the offer is on the table.”'
'What on earth does that mean?'
'No idea. Like some iced water?'
They introduced themselves as Maggie and Felix and once they'd joined me on the sun loungers and sipped their iced tea and calmed down a little, they were fun and easy-going. In Felix I sensed the businessman, I could tell he was in the habit of entering his problems in his mental search engine and waiting for a list of alternatives to come up but this time he didn't stand a chance because the wide blue was smiling as wide and as blue as only the wide blue can smile and the balmy air was becalming his twiddling and so he was forced to relax a little more, close his eyes and lay back. A quiet self-assurance returned as the moment whispered him a truth - it was time to log off, close down and unplug. As for Nikos, he showed a professional measured concern wrapped in amiable compassion. In other words, he took no notice - he'd seen it all before.
Felix was friendly and politely laughed and nodded as we talked about our lives. I never ask how people earn their money, it never seems to enter my head, but he happened to mention his mother lived in Falmouth and that was enough to bring us together in the easy atmosphere of people far from home. Before long, we were enjoying the reassuring comfort of silence amongst friends. Him in his bathing shorts, scratching his belly, engrossed in his book and me stretched out on a towel in the shade. Maggie with her paradise hair, the darling of the bar, restless, moving around the terrace like chiffon in a breeze casually peeling off the layers and layering them over a chair. I happened to mention that I'd never flown before and almost hadn't made the trip, 'And I'm not sure about funerals. All that public grieving - not for me, I'm afraid. Grieving should be done in private.'
'Sorry? What's not for you? Dying?' Maggie kept a straight face. 'Hey, I'm training to be a Personal Awareness Tutor but since I'm on holiday, this won't cost you a penny.'
'What won't?'
'Speed Hypnotherapy. I need to practice and in one concentrated session I'm going to hypnotise you out of your fear of flying. Don't get up, just pay attention.'
'I haven't got a fear of flying, I have a fear of very deep water...and funerals...er, are you sure you've done this stuff before?'
'Not for real but I've been studying,' Wild, ear-splitting laughter from Maggie. 'Trouble is ... finding volunteers has not been too successful. Hey ho, even if I say so myself, I'm pretty good. So trust me.'
'Well, alright but don't rinse my brain. I've heard all sorts about hypnotism and most of it dodgy.'
'Oh, my goodness, you are so funny!' More wild laughter, 'I think I'm gonna wet myself.'
'Oh, joy,' I breathed.
'Hey, what have you got to lose Lautrec? I can assure you this method is completely safe and you won't believe the positive difference it'll make to your life. Honest. Now, make yourself comfortable and be prepared to lie still throughout the entire process.' Her voice softened to slow, easy phrases, 'Close your eyes and take several slow, deep breaths.' A pause, then more softly, 'Experience the body lying on the floor...feel the whole body lying on the floor...feel its weight against the floor. The contact between the body and the floor.' The sounds became sweet and soothing like amber honey. 'Now, as you relax and go deeper...I would like you to realise you are going on holiday...and you're at the airport. You are going...to...fly to...er, Greece. You have everything you need for a wonderful time. Your passport and tickets are safe and secure. You are calm and confident...'
Between my eyelids, I could see Felix was deeply into his book, he'd heard this all before.
'You arrive at the terminal, see the insurance desk, you are asked if the place you're going is your final destination and you are told this is your last and final call for flight 666, terminating at Athens Airport. One of the first messages you'll get is how to cope with a crash and how to use oxygen in case of an emergency.'
I was beaming. It couldn't be more negative.
'Then just when they think it's all over, the stewardess announces, “We are on our final approach and we will be on the ground in a few moments. Please stay in your seats until we arrive at the gate.”' I could tell she was smiling. 'Listen, now here are all the positives: you've got the safe sounds of the flaps and the gear, and just regard turbulence like you would a bumpy road, that's all it is. Through the aircraft windows you have the energy and beauty of nature, and always remember that all your misgivings stem from an understandable anticipation and concern. These are just normal reactions to the forthcoming adventure - nothing to be ashamed of.'
I liked that, “Nothing to be ashamed of”. The most important point seemed to be the stress on the positives but I don't remember everything she said. I do remember her voice was soft and sympathetic and that when she brought me down to earth, I felt at ease, definitely, and dare I say it, there was a faint spark of self-confidence I'd not noticed before.
Maggie took my hand, 'Well, can't sit here all day, it's time for our siesta. As I say, give it a chance to sink in and you'll be fine. She kissed me on the cheek and again, the laughter and vermilion as she scooped up her clothes, 'See you later, Godfrey. Coming Felix?' At that she turned and waved before leaving the stage, drawing attention from everyone on the planet. Felix shrugged, sneezed, and followed Maggie to dreamland like an obedient puppy, all problems on pause - pure theatre.
Then came a still, unpleasant heaviness and clearly, it was time to get indoors. With the sun directly overhead there were few shadows and the heat was draining any theoretical stamina even though I'd prepared for this by nibbling, and sipping lots of liquids in advance. Wearing Manolis' sombrero had helped, amusing the holiday snappers but by then the joke was over, there was no one around and I'd had enough. Each time I inhaled, I inhaled warm air into my dry mouth. I needed a cooling breeze, perhaps up on some roof or under the sea.
It was amongst the maze of narrow passageways that I began to feel trapped. My body was damp with sweat, I was panting, and even my eyelids were itchy. I saw what I thought might be some safety in the shadowy oasis of an evil-smelling old stable, but it was worse in there. My head was splitting and spinning and it was either give in to my defeat or push on and find the safety of home. I cursed each time I stumbled or scraped against a wall and not just that, I kept going round in circles and became so desperate for somewhere soothing to sit that I developed a curious interest in the door handles of empty houses hoping one might allow me inside. I was worn out, as though drunk, ready to drop. I lay down amongst the dust and bugs in some ferns and cobwebs hoping for a doze, but the drone of maroon flies and the crickety-crick of scowling crickets kept nudging me awake until I eased myself up and strode on, trying to soothe my head with my hand, realising how sweet is cool and how much precious water I'd wasted in my life.
And then I saw our villa, shimmering like a mirage, and a fluttering curtain signalled I was home.
I should have known it by the flowers; they were everywhere, welcoming and dazzling outside a house the colour of summer sky. From the front door to the corner and round and out of sight, was a chaos of wildly flowering weeds. On the window ledge flowered buxom, deep-red geraniums with a few fresh ferns just uncurling. Underneath I found the house key safe and happy in its place. The shower in the yard came into its own and that's when I knew for sure why it was there. Something happens to me now whenever I'm in that odourless, invisible, wetness that is water whether in the bathtub, under the shower or just washing my skin. I think accepting the ocean did it for me. Once submerged, I relax. I feel comfortable. I feel a connexion. I'm beyond my fears. Perhaps something is absorbed into my bloodstream that has remarkable recuperative effects. No doubt they know all about it in the village.
Without drying off, I fell on the bed and didn't wake till dusk. At some point I think I heard Alexis and Alessandra talking downstairs and I remember feeling cold enough to pull the sheet over me and put a bath towel on top of that. Alexis must have popped in before he went out because there was a glass of water and a cup of strong, but cold, Greek coffee beside me when I woke.
Strangely the sky had turned cloudy and evenly overcast and we might well have been in Cornwall if it weren't for the windmills turning. But at least I'd lost the chill and felt more like my old self again.