Step 1:
Jack up the front of the car up and have it properly supported with jack stands and/or with the use of OEM scissor jacks on the sides.
Step 2:
Remove two 17mm bolts from the sub-frame & control arms.
Step 3:
Place the Carbing Lower Arm Bar aligned with one side of the sub- frame and control arm and insert a bolt back in. It will prove difficult to align the bolt back in the treads but a tip is to use a scissor jack and flat-head. The scissor jack supports the LCA’s weight upward while you use a flat head to “pry” the lower control arm to align with the threads on the sub-frame. A tip to avoid stripping the threads is to use the 17mm socket & flat-head at the same time, constantly prying up-and-downward motions until you “feel” the bolt threading in.
Step 4:
Tighten the bolt down and repeat on the other side of the sub-frame. Lower car and enjoy the extra chassis rigidity, improved steering response and increased traction. Now that the bar is installed, I can now worry less when driving slammed.
Step 5:
Drive your car slammed for a whole year and experience the Static Life.
So after a year of driving slammed with this front Carbing tie bar, I’m quite glad with this investment because it withstood the abuse of daily slammed driving and still kept my car feeling rigid during hard turns. Definitely a nice investment with function & form. Obviously I comprehend the impractical reasons to driving a slammed car…it’s stupid and non-functional yet still manages to drive. Why? Because it is a type of driving skill that needs to be practice and ultimately mastered. You learn how to take speed bumps at the right angles and proper speed where it is enough to get over yet gentle enough to scrape slowly with less minimal damage. Think about it, the car is already low and inevitably will scrape. How can you control that to avoid damages to the engine?
Scrap Slow. 
Every day I leave my garage, I go through a downward hill struggle to get out of and this was my main obstacle everyday! I had to do a 3-point turn just to get out the driveway. But once I was out, driving to my destinations were easy and nontroublesome. So every day I had to “control” how I scrape by positioning the car at the right angles and right speed, only sometimes scraping either the stock tow hooks or oil pan. Now there are times where you get stuck. It can be embarrassing from bystanders, a slight blow to the ego, or simply hilarious. I’ve experienced this all before and can sometimes ruin the fun of driving slammed. Another bad part of driving slammed are tires. If you don’t have a properly aligned adjustments for your toe and/or camber, usually toe goes first, then your tires will wear out a lot quicker. A simple flipping of the tires can help you run the tires a bit longer. But proper alignment is strongly recommended.
Since I only drive my car and did not really track the car due to it being a very expensive hobby, I enjoyed the slammed life. It i s all about how good your car looked at an extrememly low right height and simultaneously keeping the car looking immaculate as possible. Because quite frankly, the slammed life itself is a hobby and quite a skillful one as you have to learn how to avoid damaging your aero parts and paint. I remember my front JDM ITR lip had numerous of paint chips but I still rocked it because the overall paint of my car was still gleamingly clean! For those who do not believe me, here is my old 1996 Desert Mist Metallic Acura Integra LS sedan. The suspension were Tein Superstreet Full Coilvers and the wheels are Work VS-KF 15x7 +20 All Around.
And yes that is a pile of leaves in front of my car. 
