Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call potages maigres, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used. For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock, according to their colour.
Stock will keep for several days—in winter for a week.
A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the flavour of a poor stock.
Utensils.—Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French pot au feu, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.
It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar, and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.
Wooden or silver spoons should be used.
The fire.—In making stock it is most important to have a steady fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side only of the pot.
To prepare fresh meat for stock.—Look over the meat carefully. Cut away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom of the pot that is to be used.
Vegetables.—In hot weather it is better to make stock without vegetables, as they often turn it sour.
See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour, or their flavour will be impaired.
Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.
Herbs.—To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a bouquet (i.e. a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage, thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.
Seasoning.—It is not necessary to season the original stock. In making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground pepper, and one clove.
To remove fat from stock.—Every particle of fat must be removed from the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how much fat is removed.
To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold. The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will absorb all the fat.
If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been put in very cold water and wrung out.
To clarify stock for clear soups.—The addition of a little cold water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be clear.
To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg. Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup, put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure, shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.
Straining.—It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl, with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or muslin over the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any pressure.
The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine and absolutely clean and sweet.