“One of the most wonderful
rivers in the world,
mirroring from sea to
source, a hundred cities and
five hundred towers.”
Oscar Wilde
Around 1560, Catherine de Medici forced Diane de Poiters to exchange Chenonceau for Chaumont sur Loire, because she had been her husband’s, Henri II, mistress. I would have done the same.
Later, Le Ray, who had dealings with Benjamin Franklin in the New World, also destroyed and rebuilt parts, and it was nearly demolished during the revolution.
After trouble with financial ruin the state bought the building, undertook some renovations, and in 1992 a opened magnificent new garden for international garden festivals.
Chaumont sur Loire is your small 'pied-à-terre' style château outside Paris for the 'we don't need too many bedrooms now the kids have gone' aristocrat.
Stood on a steep hill, built as a castle around the 10th century, the Amboise family kept it for five centuries through marriage.
“Do we stop the car and park for something with less than six turrets?” I asked myself, looking at the map and seeing dozens more Chateaux lying ahead of us.
Yes, we found a place and parked in the disabled spot right near the entrance. Job done.
The choice of châteaux in the region is overwhelming, and when planning your day and considering all the options, one realises some have to become 'drive-bys' but which ones?
I divided how many days we were on the road with the number of châteaux options and it probably came to about 5-6 a day for an average week’s travel. It was just not possible.
It was like Disney Land for adults, almost unreal, intense, awesome, seductive, with a cultural history from a wondrous time.
Too much to learn, history to absorb without the right research, and too many miles to cover in one week.
We drove away knowing any of this, but found it all out later that night after reading the brochures we had collected. Pathetic I know but true.
Typically, again, we wandered around a magnificent building, clocked in our own ignorance, and I found it sickening.