“A style of cooking that is
clear, simple, and logical,
inspired by Rabelais spirit
and Descartes genius in a
land of gourmets.”
Curmonky
We were back on another road, full speed ahead, for Domain des Hauts de Loire Hotel, set in 70 hectares of parkland and located near the Loire Valley wine route.
At 800 km, it's the longest wine route in France along the river, with the vineyards of Bourgueil, Chinon, Vouvray, or Esvres, with grape varieties Gamay and Sauvignon, and I couldn't think of a better reason to be here.
Gravel under the tyres was a welcome sound, and we weaved our way through the fir trees, which gently eased our landing.
Beautiful, tranquil, landscaped grounds offering nothing but the sounds of nature. It was a delicious scene, and I feasted my eyes upon it.
It was a hunting lodge built in 1860 and a two-star, with Chef Rémy Giraud who knows how to handle food with a wine list to die for, including great whites of the Loire, Vouvray, Mont-Louis, and Touraine.
They gave us a charming welcome and showed us a suite in a converted carriage house, which over looked the restaurant terrace, and a working vegetable and herb garden. Fresh flowers adorned our room, and their fragrance hung in the air like a patient host.
Refreshed, showered, and fortified with cold champagne hitting our veins, we ordered dinner.
I had the Le foie gras de canard. Pressé au jus de poulet, Chutney de griottes et caramel au vin d’Hypocras, Chantilly de poireau aux girolles, amandes fraîches, et magret fume, - a delicious duck foie gras with pressed with chicken juice, leeks, mushrooms, and smoked duck breast) to start with, followed by Le boeuf. Poché à la façon du Domaine. Croustillants d’artichaut et de céleri Jus de barigoule aux truffes (tuber melanosporum) - Poached beef, Domaine style with artichoke and celery crisps, and “Barigoule” juice with truffles.
I did say I was eating, and I didn't think this was fattening…but who cared anyway?
Tom had the Le turbot Poêlé sur peau aux artichauts; condimenté au citron confit et coriandre Thaï with profiteroles farcies d’une purée d’olives Taggiasca; Jus d’ailerons de volaille. Pan-sautéed turbot, skin-on with artichokes, complete with preserved lemon and Thai coriander accompanied by profiteroles stuffed with a Taggiasca olive purée and chicken juice.
I wished I could have held onto that taste sensation forever. It was sublime. We didn't talk much in case it rubbed away the flavours.
The dessert gave me a “Harry met Sally' moment. L'apricot. Rôti. Décliné en soufflé et façon tatin. Emulsion glacée au cyprès. Roasted apricot, as a soufflé and “tatin” style (upside down tart) and iced emulsion with cypress.
I sat back, looked silently at Tom, and studied him without him noticing. I thought of swapping him for a fatter man, whom only wanted to eat like this in life and wanted me to be his life partner.
We went to bed, with nothing but a few words, each of us knowing that every ounce of energy was being sucked out of us, and into the Loire.
The extensive trails and woodland have black and white swans, Egyptian geese, ducks, and other inhabitants, and offer three walking trails for ¼ hour, ½ hour, or ¾ of an hour through the estate.
We saw none of these beauties. We got up early, had breakfast, jumped back into the car and hit the road again - for absolutely no good reason.