Life on the Mississippi by Mark Twain.. - HTML preview

and achieving new impossibilities. It is hopeless for the oc-TIMES-DEMOCRAT OF MARCH 29,

casional visitor to try to keep up with Chicago—she out-1882.)

grows his prophecies faster than he can make them. She is always a novelty; for she is never the Chicago you saw when VOYAGE OF THE TIMES-you passed through the last time. The Pennsylvania road DEMOCRATS RELIEF BOAT

rushed us to New York without missing schedule time ten THROUGH THE INUNDATED REGIONS

minutes anywhere on the route; and there ended one of the most enjoyable five-thousand-mile journeys I have ever had IT WAS NINE O’CLOCK THURSDAY MORNING when the “Susie” the good fortune to make.

left the Mississippi and entered Old River, or what is now called the mouth of the Red. Ascending on the left, a flood was pouring in through and over the levees on the Chandler plantation, the most northern point in Pointe Coupee parish. The water completely covered the place, although the levees had given way but a short time before. The stock had been gathered in a large flat-boat, where, without food, as we passed, the animals were huddled together, waiting for a boat to tow them off. On the right-hand side of the river is Turnbull’s Island, and on it is a large plantation which for-328

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain merly was pronounced one of the most fertile in the State.

Their rafts were about twenty feet square, and in front of an The water has hitherto allowed it to go scot-free in usual improvised shelter earth had been placed, on which they floods, but now broad sheets of water told only where fields built their fire.

were. The top of the protecting levee could be seen here and The current running down the Atchafalaya was very swift, there, but nearly all of it was submerged.

the Mississippi showing a predilection in that direction, which The trees have put on a greener foliage since the water has needs only to be seen to enforce the opinion of that river’s poured in, and the woods look bright and fresh, but this desperate endeavors to find a short way to the Gulf. Small pleasant aspect to the eye is neutralized by the interminable boats, skiffs, pirogues, etc., are in great demand, and many waste of water. We pass mile after mile, and it is nothing but have been stolen by piratical negroes, who take them where trees standing up to their branches in water. A water-turkey they will bring the greatest price. From what was told me by now and again rises and flies ahead into the long avenue of Mr. C. P. Ferguson, a planter near Red River Landing, whose silence. A pirogue sometimes flits from the bushes and crosses place has just gone under, there is much suffering in the rear the Red River on its way out to the Mississippi, but the sad-of that place. The negroes had given up all thoughts of a faced paddlers never turn their heads to look at our boat.

crevasse there, as the upper levee had stood so long, and The puffing of the boat is music in this gloom, which affects when it did come they were at its mercy. On Thursday a one most curiously. It is not the gloom of deep forests or number were taken out of trees and off of cabin roofs and dark caverns, but a peculiar kind of solemn silence and im-brought in, many yet remaining.

pressive awe that holds one perforce to its recognition. We One does not appreciate the sight of earth until he has passed two negro families on a raft tied up in the willows traveled through a flood. At sea one does not expect or look this morning. They were evidently of the well-to-do class, as for it, but here, with fluttering leaves, shadowy forest aisles, they had a supply of meal and three or four hogs with them.

house-tops barely visible, it is expected. In fact a grave-yard, 329

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain if the mounds were above water, would be appreciated. The dim outlines of distant trunks can be barely distinguished in river here is known only because there is an opening in the the gloom.

trees, and that is all. It is in width, from Fort Adams on the A few miles up this river, the depth of water on the banks left bank of the Mississippi to the bank of Rapides Parish, a was fully eight feet, and on all sides could be seen, still hold-distance of about sixty miles. A large portion of this was ing against the strong current, the tops of cabins. Here and under cultivation, particularly along the Mississippi and back there one overturned was surrounded by drift-wood, form-of the Red. When Red River proper was entered, a strong ing the nucleus of possibly some future island.

current was running directly across it, pursuing the same In order to save coal, as it was impossible to get that fuel at direction as that of the Mississippi.

any point to be touched during the expedition, a look-out After a run of some hours, Black River was reached. Hardly was kept for a wood-pile. On rounding a point a pirogue, was it entered before signs of suffering became visible. All skilfully paddled by a youth, shot out, and in its bow was a the willows along the banks were stripped of their leaves.

girl of fifteen, of fair face, beautiful black eyes, and demure One man, whom your correspondent spoke to, said that he manners. The boy asked for a paper, which was thrown to had had one hundred and fifty head of cattle and one hun-him, and the couple pushed their tiny craft out into the dred head of hogs. At the first appearance of water he had swell of the boat.

started to drive them to the high lands of Avoyelles, thirty-Presently a little girl, not certainly over twelve years, five miles off, but he lost fifty head of the beef cattle and paddled out in the smallest little canoe and handled it with sixty hogs. Black River is quite picturesque, even if its shores all the deftness of an old voyageur. The little one looked are under water. A dense growth of ash, oak, gum, and more like an Indian than a white child, and laughed when hickory make the shores almost impenetrable, and where asked if she were afraid. She had been raised in a pirogue one can get a view down some avenue in the trees, only the and could go anywhere. She was bound out to pick willow 330

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain leaves for the stock, and she pointed to a house near by with and a bloated carcass, solemnly guarded by a pair of buz-water three inches deep on the floors. At its back door was zards, the only bird to be seen, which feast on the carcass as moored a raft about thirty feet square, with a sort of fence it bears them along. A picture-frame in which there was a built upon it, and inside of this some sixteen cows and twenty cheap lithograph of a soldier on horseback, as it floated on hogs were standing. The family did not complain, except on told of some hearth invaded by the water and despoiled of account of losing their stock, and promptly brought a sup-this ornament.

ply of wood in a flat.

At dark, as it was not prudent to run, a place alongside the From this point to the Mississippi River, fifteen miles, there woods was hunted and to a tall gum-tree the boat was made is not a spot of earth above water, and to the westward for fast for the night.

thirty-five miles there is nothing but the river’s flood. Black A pretty quarter of the moon threw a pleasant light over River had risen during Thursday, the 23rd, 1 (three-quar-forest and river, making a picture that would be a delightful ters) inches, and was going up at night still. As we progress piece of landscape study, could an artist only hold it down to up the river habitations become more frequent, but are yet his canvas. The motion of the engines had ceased, the puff-still miles apart. Nearly all of them are deserted, and the outing of the escaping steam was stilled, and the enveloping houses floated off. To add to the gloom, almost every living silence closed upon us, and such silence it was! Usually in a thing seems to have departed, and not a whistle of a bird nor forest at night one can hear the piping of frogs, the hum of the bark of the squirrel can be heard in this solitude. Some-insects, or the dropping of limbs; but here nature was dumb.

times a morose gar will throw his tail aloft and disappear in The dark recesses, those aisles into this cathedral, gave forth the river, but beyond this everything is quiet—the quiet of no sound, and even the ripplings of the current die away.

dissolution. Down the river floats now a neatly whitewashed At daylight Friday morning all hands were up, and up the hen-house, then a cluster of neatly split fence-rails, or a door Black we started. The morning was a beautiful one, and the 331

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain river, which is remarkably straight, put on its loveliest garb.

At thirty miles above the mouth of Black River the water The blossoms of the haw perfumed the air deliciously, and a extends from Natchez on the Mississippi across to the pine few birds whistled blithely along the banks. The trees were hills of Louisiana, a distance of seventy-three miles, and there larger, and the forest seemed of older growth than below.

is hardly a spot that is not ten feet under it. The tendency of More fields were passed than nearer the mouth, but the same the current up the Black is toward the west. In fact, so much scene presented itself—smoke-houses drifting out in the pas-is this the case, the waters of Red River have been driven tures, negro quarters anchored in confusion against some down from toward the Calcasieu country, and the waters of oak, and the modest residence just showing its eaves above the Black enter the Red some fifteen miles above the mouth water. The sun came up in a glory of carmine, and the trees of the former, a thing never before seen by even the oldest were brilliant in their varied shades of green. Not a foot of steamboatmen. The water now in sight of us is entirely from soil is to be seen anywhere, and the water is apparently grow-the Mississippi.

ing deeper and deeper, for it reaches up to the branches of Up to Trinity, or rather Troy, which is but a short distance the largest trees. All along, the bordering willows have been below, the people have nearly all moved out, those remain-denuded of leaves, showing how long the people have been ing having enough for their present personal needs. Their at work gathering this fodder for their animals. An old man cattle, though, are suffering and dying off quite fast, as the in a pirogue was asked how the willow leaves agreed with his confinement on rafts and the food they get breeds disease.

cattle. He stopped in his work, and with an ominous shake After a short stop we started, and soon came to a section of his head replied: “Well, sir, it’s enough to keep warmth in where there were many open fields and cabins thickly scat-their bodies and that’s all we expect, but it’s hard on the tered about. Here were seen more pictures of distress. On hogs, particularly the small ones. They is dropping off pow-the inside of the houses the inmates had built on boxes a erful fast. But what can you do? It’s all we’ve got.” scaffold on which they placed the furniture. The bed-posts 332

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain were sawed off on top, as the ceiling was not more than four point there is always imminent risk of their being swept away.

feet from the improvised floor. The buildings looked very If this occurs, there will be great loss of life. The General insecure, and threatened every moment to float off. Near spoke of the gallant work of many of the people in their the houses were cattle standing breast high in the water, per-attempts to save their stock, but thought that fully twenty-fectly impassive. They did not move in their places, but stood five per cent. had perished. Already twenty-five hundred patiently waiting for help to come. The sight was a distress-people had received rations from Troy, on Black River, and ing one, and the poor creatures will be sure to die unless he had towed out a great many cattle, but a very great quan-speedily rescued. Cattle differ from horses in this peculiar tity remained and were in dire need. The water was now quality. A horse, after finding no relief comes, will swim off eighteen inches higher than in 1874, and there was no land in search of food, whereas a beef will stand in its tracks until between Vidalia and the hills of Catahoula.

with exhaustion it drops in the water and drowns.

At two o’clock the “Susie” reached Troy, sixty-five miles At half-past twelve o’clock a hail was given from a flat-above the mouth of Black River. Here on the left comes in boat inside the line of the bank. Rounding to we ran along-Little River; just beyond that the Ouachita, and on the right side, and General York stepped aboard. He was just then the Tensas. These three rivers form the Black River. Troy, or engaged in getting off stock, and welcomed the ‘Times-a portion of it, is situated on and around three large Indian Democrat’ boat heartily, as he said there was much need for mounds, circular in shape, which rise above the present wa-her. He said that the distress was not exaggerated in the least.

ter about twelve feet. They are about one hundred and fifty People were in a condition it was difficult even for one to feet in diameter, and are about two hundred yards apart.

imagine. The water was so high there was great danger of The houses are all built between these mounds, and hence their houses being swept away. It had already risen so high are all flooded to a depth of eighteen inches on their floors.

that it was approaching the eaves, and when it reaches this These elevations, built by the aborigines, hundreds of years 333

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain ago, are the only points of refuge for miles. When we ar-which is hourly threatened with destruction. It is much lower rived we found them crowded with stock, all of which was than Troy, and the water is eight and nine feet deep in the thin and hardly able to stand up. They were mixed together, houses. A strong current sweeps through it, and it is remark-sheep, hogs, horses, mules, and cattle. One of these mounds able that all of its houses have not gone before. The residents has been used for many years as the grave-yard, and to-day of both Troy and Trinity have been cared for, yet some of we saw attenuated cows lying against the marble tomb-stones, their stock have to be furnished with food.

chewing their cud in contentment, after a meal of corn fur-As soon as the ‘Susie’ reached Troy, she was turned over to nished by General York. Here, as below, the remarkable skill General York, and placed at his disposition to carry out the of the women and girls in the management of the smaller work of relief more rapidly. Nearly all her supplies were landed pirogues was noticed. Children were paddling about in these on one of the mounds to lighten her, and she was headed most ticklish crafts with all the nonchalance of adepts.

down stream to relieve those below. At Tom Hooper’s place, General York has put into operation a perfect system in a few miles from Troy, a large flat, with about fifty head of regard to furnishing relief. He makes a personal inspection stock on board, was taken in tow. The animals were fed, and of the place where it is asked, sees what is necessary to be soon regained some strength. To-day we go on Little River, done, and then, having two boats chartered, with flats, sends where the suffering is greatest.

them promptly to the place, when the cattle are loaded and towed to the pine hills and uplands of Catahoula. He has DOWN BLACK RIVER

made Troy his headquarters, and to this point boats come for their supply of feed for cattle. On the opposite side of Saturday Evening, March 25.

Little River, which branches to the left out of Black, and between it and the Ouachita, is situated the town of Trinity, We started down Black River quite early, under the direc-334

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain tion of General York, to bring out what stock could be homes is beyond all comprehension. Just below, at a point reached. Going down river a flat in tow was left in a central sixteen miles from Troy, information was received that the locality, and from there men poled her back in the rear of house of Mr. Tom Ellis was in danger, and his family were all plantations, picking up the animals wherever found. In the in it. We steamed there immediately, and a sad picture was loft of a gin-house there were seventeen head found, and presented. Looking out of the half of the window left above after a gangway was built they were led down into the flat water, was Mrs. Ellis, who is in feeble health, whilst at the without difficulty. Taking a skiff with the General, your re-door were her seven children, the oldest not fourteen years.

porter was pulled up to a little house of two rooms, in which One side of the house was given up to the work animals, the water was standing two feet on the floors. In one of the some twelve head, besides hogs. In the next room the family large rooms were huddled the horses and cows of the place, lived, the water coming within two inches of the bed-rail.

while in the other the Widow Taylor and her son were seated The stove was below water, and the cooking was done on a on a scaffold raised on the floor. One or two dug-outs were fire on top of it. The house threatened to give way at any drifting about in the roam ready to be put in service at any moment: one end of it was sinking, and, in fact, the build-time. When the flat was brought up, the side of the house ing looked a mere shell. As the boat rounded to, Mr. Ellis was cut away as the only means of getting the animals out, came out in a dug-out, and General York told him that he and the cattle were driven on board the boat. General York, had come to his relief; that ‘The Times-Democrat’ boat was in this as in every case, inquired if the family desired to leave, at his service, and would remove his family at once to the informing them that Major Burke, of ‘The Times-Demo-hills, and on Monday a flat would take out his stock, as, crat,’ has sent the ‘Susie’ up for that purpose. Mrs. Taylor until that time, they would be busy. Notwithstanding the said she thanked Major Burke, but she would try and hold deplorable situation himself and family were in, Mr. Ellis out. The remarkable tenacity of the people here to their did not want to leave. He said he thought he would wait 335

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain until Monday, and take the risk of his house falling. The chil-is working with indomitable energy, will get landed in the dren around the door looked perfectly contented, seeming to pine hills by Tuesday.

care little for the danger they were in. These are but two inAll along Black River the “Susie” has been visited by scores stances of the many. After weeks of privation and suffering, of planters, whose tales are the repetition of those already people still cling to their houses and leave only when there is heard of suffering and loss. An old planter, who has lived on not room between the water and the ceiling to build a scaffold the river since 1844, said there never was such a rise, and he on which to stand. It seemed to be incomprehensible, yet the was satisfied more than one quarter of the stock has been love for the old place was stronger than that for safety.

lost. Luckily the people cared first for their work stock, and After leaving the Ellis place, the next spot touched at was when they could find it horses and mules were housed in a the Oswald place. Here the flat was towed alongside the gin-place of safety. The rise which still continues, and was two house where there were fifteen head standing in water; and inches last night, compels them to get them out to the hills; yet, as they stood on scaffolds, their heads were above the hence it is that the work of General York is of such a great top of the entrance. It was found impossible to get them out value. From daylight to late at night he is going this way and without cutting away a portion of the front; and so axes that, cheering by his kindly words and directing with calm were brought into requisition and a gap made. After much judgment what is to be done. One unpleasant story, of a labor the horses and mules were securely placed on the flat.

certain merchant in New Orleans, is told all along the river.

At each place we stop there are always three, four, or more It appears for some years past the planters have been dealing dug-outs arriving, bringing information of stock in other with this individual, and many of them had balances in his places in need. Notwithstanding the fact that a great many hands. When the overflow came they wrote for coffee, for had driven a part of their stock to the hills some time ago, meal, and, in fact, for such little necessities as were required.

there yet remains a large quantity, which General York, who No response to these letters came, and others were written, 336

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain and yet these old customers, with plantations under water, River to take off families. There is a lack of steam transpor-were refused even what was necessary to sustain life. It is tation here to meet the emergency. The General has three needless to say he is not popular now on Back River.

boats chartered, with flats in tow, but the demand for these The hills spoken of as the place of refuge for the people to tow out stock is greater than they can meet with prompt-and stock on Black River are in Catahoula parish, twenty-ness. All are working night and day, and the ‘Susie’ hardly four miles from Black River.

stops for more than an hour anywhere. The rise has placed After filling the flat with cattle we took on board the fam-Trinity in a dangerous plight, and momentarily it is expected ily of T. S. Hooper, seven in number, who could not longer that some of the houses will float off. Troy is a little higher, remain in their dwelling, and we are now taking them up yet all are in the water. Reports have come in that a woman Little River to the hills.

and child have been washed away below here, and two cabins floated off. Their occupants are the same who refused to THE FLOOD STILL RISING

come off day before yesterday. One would not believe the utter passiveness of the people.

Troy: March 27, 1882, noon.

As yet no news has been received of the steamer “Delia,” which is supposed to be the one sunk in yesterday’s storm on The flood here is rising about three and a half inches ev-Lake Catahoula. She is due here now, but has not arrived.

ery twenty-four hours, and rains have set in which will in-Even the mail here is most uncertain, and this I send by skiff crease this. General York feels now that our efforts ought to to Natchez to get it to you. It is impossible to get accurate be directed towards saving life, as the increase of the water data as to past crops, etc., as those who know much about has jeopardized many houses. We intend to go up the Tensas the matter have gone, and those who remain are not well in a few minutes, and then we will return and go down Black versed in the production of this section.

337

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain General York desires me to say that the amount of rations APPENDIX B

formerly sent should be duplicated and sent at once. It is impossible to make any estimate, for the people are fleeing THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER

to the hills, so rapid is the rise. The residents here are in a COMMISSION

state of commotion that can only be appreciated when seen, and complete demoralization has set in, THE CONDITION OF THIS RICH VALLEY of the Lower Missis-If rations are drawn for any particular section hereabouts, sippi, immediately after and since the war, constituted one they would not be certain to be distributed, so everything of the disastrous effects of war most to be deplored. Ficti-should be sent to Troy as a center, and the General will have tious property in slaves was not only righteously destroyed, it properly disposed of. He has sent for one hundred tents, but very much of the work which had depended upon the and, if all go to the hills who are in motion now, two hun-slave labor was also destroyed or greatly impaired, especially dred will be required.

the levee system.

It might have been expected by those who have not investigated the subject, that such important improvements as the construction and maintenance of the levees would have been assumed at once by the several States. But what can the State do where the people are under subjection to rates of interest ranging from 18 to 30 per cent., and are also under the necessity of pledging their crops in advance even of planting, at these rates, for the privilege of purchasing all of their supplies at 100 per cent. profit?

338

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain It has needed but little attention to make it perfectly obvi-United States Engineers; Professor Henry Mitchell (the most ous that the control of the Mississippi River, if undertaken competent authority on the question of hydrography), of at all, must be undertaken by the national government, and the United States Coast Survey; B. B. Harrod, the State En-cannot be compassed by States. The river must be treated as gineer of Louisiana; Jas. B. Eads, whose success with the a unit; its control cannot be compassed under a divided or jetties at New Orleans is a warrant of his competency, and separate system of administration.

Judge Taylor, of Indiana.

Neither are the States especially interested competent to It would be presumption on the part of any single man, how-combine among themselves for the necessary operations. The ever skilled, to contest the judgment of such a board as this.

work must begin far up the river; at least as far as Cairo, if The method of improvement proposed by the commis-not beyond; and must be conducted upon a consistent gen-sion is at once in accord with the results of engineering exeral plan throughout the course of the river.

perience and with observations of nature where meeting our It does not need technical or scientific knowledge to com-wants. As in nature the growth of trees and their proneness prehend the elements of the case if one will give a little time where undermined to fall across the slope and support the and attention to the subject, and when a Mississippi River bank secures at some points a fair depth of channel and some commission has been constituted, as the existing commis-degree of permanence, so in the project of the engineer the sion is, of thoroughly able men of different walks in life, use of timber and brush and the encouragement of forest may it not be suggested that their verdict in the case should growth are the main features. It is proposed to reduce the be accepted as conclusive, so far as any a priori theory of width where excessive by brushwood dykes, at first low, but construction or control can be considered conclusive?

raised higher and higher as the mud of the river settles un-It should be remembered that upon this board are Gender their shelter, and finally slope them back at the angle eral Gilmore, General Comstock, and General Suter, of the upon which willows will grow freely. In this work there are 339

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain many details connected with the forms of these shelter dykes, their own alluvia have required similar treatment in the in-their arrangements so as to present a series of settling basins, terest of navigation and agriculture.

etc., a description of which would only complicate the con-The levee is the crowning work of bank revetment, al-ception. Through the larger part of the river works of con-though not necessarily in immediate connection. It may be traction will not be required, but nearly all the banks on the set back a short distance from the revetted bank; but it is, in concave side of the beds must be held against the wear of the effect, the requisite parapet. The flood river and the low stream, and much of the opposite banks defended at critical river cannot be brought into register, and compelled to unite points. The works having in view this conservative object in the excavation of a single permanent channel, without a may be generally designated works of revetment; and these complete control of all the stages; and even the abnormal also will be largely of brushwood, woven in continuous car-rise must be provided against, because this would endanger pets, or twined into wire-netting. This veneering process has the levee, and once in force behind the works of revetment been successfully employed on the Missouri River; and in would tear them also away.

some cases they have so covered themselves with sediments, Under the general principle that the local slope of a river and have become so overgrown with willows, that they may is the result and measure of the resistance of its bed, it is be regarded as permanent. In securing these mats rubble-evident that a narrow and deep stream should have less slope, stone is to be used in small quantities, and in some instances because it has less frictional surface in proportion to capac-the dressed slope between high and low river will have to be ity; i.e., less perimeter in proportion to area of cross section.

more or less paved with stone.

The ultimate effect of levees and revetments confining the Any one who has been on the Rhine will have observed floods and bringing all the stages of the river into register is operations not unlike those to which we have just referred; to deepen the channel and let down the slope. The first ef-and, indeed, most of the rivers of Europe flowing among fect of the levees is to raise the surface; but this, by inducing 340

Life on the Mississippi - Mark Twain greater velocity of flow, inevitably causes an enlargement of It is hardly worth while to consider the projects for reliev-section, and if this enlargement is prevented from being made ing the Mississippi River floods by creating new outlets, since at the expense of the banks, the bottom must give way and these sensational propositions have co