The Man‐Made World
IX. “SOCIETY” AND “FASHION”
Among our many naive misbeliefs is the current fallacy that
“society” is made by women; and that women are responsible for that peculiar social manifestation called “fashion.”
Men and women alike accept this notion; the serious essayist and philosopher, as well as the novelist and paragrapher, reflect it in their pages. The force of inertia acts in the domain of psychics as well as physics; any idea pushed into the popular mind with considerable force will keep on going until some opposing force—or the slow resistance of friction—stops it at last.
“Society” consists mostly of women. Women carry on most of its processes, therefore women are its makers and masters, they are responsible for it, that is the general belief.
We might as well hold women responsible for harems—or prisoners
for jails. To be helplessly confined to a given place or condition does not prove that one has chosen it; much less made it.
No; in an androcentric culture “society,” like every other social relation, is dominated by the male and arranged for his convenience.
There are, of course, modifications due to the presence of the other sex; where there are more women than men there are inevitable results of their influence; but the character and conditions of the whole performance are dictated by men.
Social intercourse is the prime condition of human life. To meet, to mingle, to know one another, to exchange, not only definite ideas, facts, and feelings, but to experience that vague general stimulus and enlarged power that comes of contact—all this is essential to our happiness as well as to our progress.
This grand desideratum has always been monopolized by men as far
as possible. What intercourse was allowed to women has been rigidly hemmed its by man‐made conventions. Women accept these
conventions, repeat them, enforce them upon their daughters; but they originate with men.
The feet of the little Chinese girl are bound by her mother and her nurse—but it is not for woman‘s pleasure that this crippling torture 68
The Man‐Made World
was invented. The Oriental veil is worn by women, but it is not for any need of theirs that veils were decreed them.
When we look at society in its earlier form we find that the public house has always been with us. It is as old almost as the private house; the need for association is as human as the need for privacy.
But the public house was—and is—for men only. The woman was kept as far as possible at home. Her female nature was supposed to
delimit her life satisfactorily, and her human stature was completely ignored.
Under the pressure of that human nature she has always rebelled at
the social restrictions which surrounded her; and from the women of older lands gathered at the well, or in the market place, to our own women on the church steps or in the sewing circle, they have ceaselessly struggled for the social intercourse which was as much a law of their being as of man‘s.
When we come to the modern special field that we call “society,” we find it to consist of a carefully arranged set of processes and places wherein women may meet one another and meet men. These vary, of
course, with race, country, class, and period; from the clean licence of our western customs to the strict chaperonage of older lands; but free as it is in America, even here there are bounds.
Men associate without any limit but that of inclination and financial capacity. Even class distinction only works one way—the low‐class man may not mingle with high‐class women; but the high‐class man
may—and does—mingle with low‐class women. It is his society—
may not a man do what he will with his own?
Caste distinctions, as have been ably shown by Prof. Lester F. Ward, are relics of race distinction; the subordinate caste was once a subordinate race; and while mating, upward, was always forbidden
to the subject race; mating, downward, was always practiced by the
master race.
The elaborate shading of “the color line” in slavery days, from pure black up through mulatto, quadroon, octoroon, quinteroon, griffada, mustafee, mustee, and sang d‘or—to white again; was not through white mothers—but white fathers; never too exclusive in their tastes.
Even in slavery, the worst horrors were strictly androcentric.