In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completed fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread, joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2 or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.
[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]* * * * *
276.--_Crochet Antimacassar_.
Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10.
[Illustration: 276.--Crochet Antimacassar.]
This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it.
1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat.2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1 loop, and repeat.
3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7 chain, and repeat.
4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2 more double crochet, and repeat.
5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make
9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1 chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1 long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and repeat. 8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. This completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving will make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. If a round couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than the others; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8 circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in each row till you have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels are required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cotton over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at one end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an inch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will be sufficient.
277.--_Crochet Insertion_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40.
[Illustration: 277.--Crochet Insertion.]
The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always two opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, join them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chain stitches. Work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double round the 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and work 10 chain scallops as follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5 chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in the last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To get to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in the middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on the needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described, and so on.
* * * * *278 _and_ 279.--_Tobacco Pouch in Crochet Work_.
Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread.
The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star.
With crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into a circle. Work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch.
5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on.
6th round: All gold stitches.
7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on.
8th round: All crimson stitches.
9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c. 10th round: Similar to the preceding.
[Illustration: 278.--Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279.]
11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c.
12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre gold stitches of preceding round, &c.
13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.
14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c.
15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.
16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c.
17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of preceding round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c.
18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7 crimson stitches, &c.
Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No. 279. The centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The border round the top is of the same colours.
[Illustration: 279.--Tobacco Pouch.]Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round of gold scallops.
In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off with small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouch fasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and one black. The pouch is lined with white kid.
* * * * *280 _and_ 281.--_Crochet Rosettes_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4, 24, or 40.
These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, or for making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with which they are worked.
[Illustration: 280.--Crochet Rosette.] 280.--Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle and work the 1st round; 44 double.
2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round under them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *.3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, *
5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble,
1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat
10 times more from *. Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which is ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in illustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chain stitch.
[Illustration: 281.--Crochet Rosette.]
281.--Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and work the 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8 stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2 long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitch before the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. The first leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times more from *. Join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the 11 chain stitch. 2nd round: (Fasten on the cotton afresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between. 3rd round: 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is then completed.
* * * * *282.--_Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Applique, and Velvet Ribbon_.
[Illustration: 282.--Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Applique and Velvet Ribbon.]
This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented with embroidery patterns worked in applique, and velvet ribbon drawn through. They are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. Begin on a sufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by 20, and work the 1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches of the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the loop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is wound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, wind the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with the loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches of the foundation, and repeat from *.
2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting the needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between.
3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain,
1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *.
4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row,
3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain; repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on the other side of the foundation chain.
When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that 2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns and velvet ribbon.
* * * * *283.--_Crochet Insertion_.
This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or pillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If the insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle of one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches; join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:--* 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4 slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes the star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following rows:--
1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4 placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *.
2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *.3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *.
4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:--
1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next purl. Repeat from *.2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches. 4th row: Like the 2nd row.
5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *.
[Illustration: 283.--Crochet Insertion.]
* * * * *
284.--_Crochet Insertion_.
Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitches as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers, which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1 long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consists of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower is completed.
[Illustration: 284.--Crochet Insertion.]* * * * * 285.--_Crochet Garter_.
Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white elastic cord; a pearl button.
This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.
[Illustration: 285.--Crochet Garter.]
Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain. Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing 1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the button-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk.
* * * * *286.--_Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle to match.
This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following manner:--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round: 8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain. Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette. Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same manner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7 times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of these stars are required for each shoulder.
[Illustration: 286.--Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise.]For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain,
1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette (see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next space, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1 double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross.
KNITTING.
287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted the hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment. Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland and Scotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of Scotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following instructions are offered.
To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton, silk, or wool are required.Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread, cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of the needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walker and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English and foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of German needles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest English wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three, four, and five needles are employed.
[Illustration: 287.--Knitting Gauge.]* * * * *
288.--_Casting On_.
This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by "knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:--
Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand, throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pass the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pass it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch (see No. 288).
[Illustration: 288.--Casting On.]289.--_To Knit On_.
[Illustration: 289.--Knitting On.]
Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, and another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (No. 289). Hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger, leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (The wonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate, that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at her fingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a purely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point of the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle in front under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which in its turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle.
290.--_Simple Knitting (plain)_.[Illustration: 290.--Plain Knitting.]
Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle, at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass the point of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with the thread already thrown over, as in "knitting on," only, instead of placing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on the right-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of the left-hand needle. Continue thus until all the stitches are taken from the left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete.
291.--_To Purl, Pearl, or Seam_.Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_ instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitch as in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must be brought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the thread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see No. 291). [Illustration: 291.--Purling.]
292.--_To Increase_.Increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round the needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.
[Illustration: 292.--Increasing.]
293.--_To Decrease_.
This is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knitting them together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knitting it, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usual way, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see No. 293). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed thus:--Slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted stitch over the two knitted together.
[Illustration: 293.--Decreasing.]294.--_Round Knitting_.
To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c., are made. To knit with four needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a second needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceed in a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when this is done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last; this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round.
295.--_Casting Off_.Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitch over the second; continue this to the end of the row. _Note_.--The last knitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely.
296.--_To Pick up a Stitch_.This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming a stitch with it.
* * * * *
The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety of work:--
297.--_Peacock's Tail Pattern_.
Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton.
[Illustration: 297.--Peacock's Tail Pattern.]
Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, which is in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row.
1_st Row_.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat this four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2 plain for border.
2_nd Row_.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat. [Illustration: 298.--Spiral Stitch.]3_rd Row_.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat.
4_th Row_.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat.
5_th Row_.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together.
Begin from the 1st row.
Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. These stripes should be sewn together after all are finished.
* * * * *
298.--_Spiral Stitch_.
Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool.
This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton. It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide stripes cast on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting the first and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainly knitted.
1_st Row_.--Purl 3 together to end of row.2_nd Row_.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making the last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row.
* * * * *
[Illustration 299.--Knotted Stitch.]
299.--_Knotted Stitch_.
Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool.
Cast on 11 stitches.
1_st Row_.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle before each stitch.
2_nd Row_.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads of wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast off the second over the third, and the first over the second; this leaves but one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length is obtained. This pattern makes very pretty borders.
* * * * *
Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green.