might add, we docked at Dover. I felt OK on the crossing over
helped with a couple of cups of strong tea. Immigration was a
little dicey, despite my boat passage and air ticket and due
probably to my lack of funds. Sort of like when you take the car
down for a pink slip. Will it pass?
Then bang with the stamp and I got 6 months! A bit like a gaol
sentence, eh? Anyway, out of the customs shed and front gate and I
was back in England. And was I glad. It felt like home. First
stop was a waterside cafe in the foggy gloom where I splurged on
eggs and toast and coffee, and was it good. The YHA hostel was
not far up the road and I arrived at 8pm. Today was 43 miles in
Belgium and 2 miles in Britain. I had cycled 526 miles (847km)
since arriving at Calais some 9 days ago. It was an experience
and probably looking back and enjoyable one, despite the rain and
wind and strange cultures. But I did it and am richer for it.
Sunday the 15th October, 1967 dawned fine (for Britain that's
unusual) and only a light breeze. I cycled to Canterbury and
the country was that typical nice English green colour that
catches the eye of us colonials. I was back into the hills again
but it was nice cycling and soon Canterbury was reached. It was a
nice city with old buildings and of course the cathedral. Being
Sunday, there was a service on when I arrived, so it was not
polite to go inside. A quick look at the city centre and with a
wind coming up, it was time to take stock of what I was doing.
Kent was pretty but I had a sore knee and an acute shortage of
money, so the option to catch the train back to London was too
strong. I mistook the pedestrian subway at the end of the
station, next to the level crossing, as the station entrance and
dragged my bike down only to find I had to drag it up and end up
on the other side of the tracks. A few seconds on the roadway
would have produced the same result. Anyway it was finally onto a
train and whizzing back to the big smoke. In all, a wonderful
trip. I did 14 miles today and with the 3 miles from Baden-Powell
House to Victoria Station, I had clocked up 543 miles (874km) on
my trip around Europe. Now a new part of my overseas adventure
was to begin.
First priority was to find somewhere to stay for a few months
until the boat left in March. I parked my gear underneath the
hostel, and thanked my lucky stars that it had a rear entrance
for vehicles that never seemed to be locked and lots of nooks and
crannies underneath. After chaining the bike up as well, walked
around looking for rooms. This was the Kensington end of London,
also called Kangaroo Court on account of the large number of
Australians lodging here. I could find nothing that was
affordable in the windows. I couldn't ask inside as the real
estate agents were shut today. May be if I moved away from the
city a little. I took a stab and caught a Wimbledon Tube train to
Putney Bridge, on the Thames River as I had heard that Putney was
a good place to stay. Certainly not here. Just storage and not
for me. I walked across the river (by footbridge of course) and
into East Putney and things started to look up.
Here were houses and a big shopping centre and a little like say
Burwood in Sydney. In a newsagent's window full of cards and
offers, I found a room, which was £5.5.0 per week including
breakfast. A little steep but I walked around to the boarding
house which was a street of 2 and 3 storey houses and lots of
trees and quite homely. It was at the top of 3 flights in a newly
painted room that I decided to take up residence. I had a bed and
gas fire that needed 6d in a meter and there was also a gas ring
for boiling water. The toilet was a closed off portion of the end
hall so there was 10 feet between the door and the pedestal. The
bathroom was exactly a bathroom; 1 bath and nothing else. The
landlord who had a wife and young baby told me I would have no
trouble using it as the Poms never washed. Breakfast was at 8am
every day and consisted of corn flakes, one fried egg and a piece
of bacon and a piece of toast. No variation. I took it.
Back to Baden-Powell House and some dinner in the dining room.
Then taking my gear from downstairs, but leaving the bike (I had
a haversack to carry), it was back to Gwendolen Avenue, Putney
in the rain. I sorted out my gear and wrote up my diary. On the
whole, my trip on the Continent cost me almost £9 (appx. A$22) not
including the boat crossings. I thought this most reasonable. Try
and do 9 days in Europe in 2021 for this! There were a couple of
letters waiting for me at the Hostel and it was comforting to
hear the news from home. The tape Alan and I made in Canada had
been heard. Still waiting for the post office to refund me on the
lost Money Order I sent to Hawaii. My tax refund is still no
where in sight. 1am and time for bed.
The boarding house seems to have umpteen rooms but I like it. My
room has wall to wall carpet and there is clean linen every so
often. The walk to the shopping centre took about 5 minutes which
was good. Another 5 minutes and I was at the railway station.
This was shared by both British Rail (Southern Division) and the
Tube. Whilst the BR ran to the city, the Tube was a better
service and with infinite destinations. I put on a clean shirt
and tie and crawled into a suit and headed into London to look
for work. My other suit and pants went into the dry cleaners and
would take a week! Also 2 shirts went to the local laundry. There
was a photographic exhibition on at Charing Cross celebrating
Scouting which was very good. Then a visit to BP House to see
about work. Having worked with BP for 10 years I thought my
chances were good, but they weren't. So much red tape and time
needed to write to Sydney that I put that idea on the shelf. I
tried some newspapers but there seemed to be virtually no part
time or temporary work available. Several openings for office
clerks and accountants but all full time.
Then it was to an employment agency. I was told that as an
Australian, most employers were reluctant to take you on as they
knew you would not stay. Still they would contact me in 2 or 3
days if something came up. I was to ring them back in 3 days
also. The economy is not in good shape here. A big fight today on
a construction site in the city between pickets and police, and
the wharfies are out (normal) and the railways are thinking of
going out. Still the people seem very friendly.
Feeling a bit low, I was. Then you go and do those on the spur
things that you either regret later on or thank your lucky stars
for. I went back to the travel agent and was able to change my
boat passage to Australia for an earlier sailing. I was homesick
and the thought of a cold winter in London to a warm summer in
Sydney was too much. I was to sail on the same shipping line but
on the 'S.S.Australis' which would arrive in Sydney 2 days before
Christmas.
Living in a foreign country may have its romantic side but
separated by vast masses of land and water makes one feel so
helpless and restricted. In Australia, a few hours or days drive
in a car and you are where you want to be. Here I had no car.
I've seen the major centres of civilisation but Australia stands
out to me as the best. Perhaps it is because I'm an Aussie, I
don't know. Anyway there is a lot of Australia I want to see and
re visit. What I've done recently has been terrific experience
and I don't regret it.
Then I went to the pictures near Piccadilly Circus and saw that
film, 'You only Live Twice'. Brought back memories of the
Autobhan in Holland and lifted my spirits. At tea time it was
back to Baden-Powell House for dinner and some TV and reading.
Being Monday night, there was a meeting of the International
Scout Club and tonight a film and quiz on London which I was
getting to know. Also on sale were some tickets to the Scout Gang
Show, that famous comedy/musical review that Scouts do all over
the world and I had seen at Jamborees. This one would be special
for me as it was to be at the original home of Gang Shows, at the
Golders Green Hippodrome theatre. It cost 15/- for a front stalls
seat and since seats are hard to come by anywhere in the theatre,
I was pleased. Earlier today I had a browse around the Natural
History Museum. Then it was back to my digs at Putney, in the
rain. So far in Britain and Europe I had spent about £77
excluding my boat passage home. On the dresser I have 2 photos.
One of the family and a post card of Central Australia, a
painting by Albert Namatjira of the MacDonnell Ranges. The
Australian flag hangs over the mantle piece.
Tuesday it was pounding the pavement again for a while looking
for work then went to a Police Exhibition which was interesting.
From here it was to Oxford Circus to check out some second hand
book shops. At Scout HQ in the city, I signed the visitors Book.
Then it was back to Cromwell Road to collect my bike and ride to
Putney. In the late afternoon it was back to Baden-Powell House
on the bike, and after securing it, catching the Tube to Covent
Garden and to the Ballet in the Covent Garden Opera House. 'Swan
Lake' was on and whilst I had to sit practically up in the roof,
I could still have a reasonable view of the performance. It was
thrilling to be here and the dancing and music soothed the soul.
I collected the bike afterwards and rode home in the cold night.
Luckily there was no rain.
Next day it was back to job searching and then some breaks. I
went to Berkley Square then Green Park and St. James Park with the
Serpentine Lake and all the white swans. I saw the Horse Guards
barracks and took a couple of photos then it was back home. I
walked around the shops and had a bite to eat, but was glad to
get to bed as it was so cold. Work was going to be hard to find,
especially as I didn't have a work permit or a National Insurance
number. As lots of visitors have jobs it means there is a certain
amount of luck and fast talking, but I suppose I had rung about a
dozen places and my name was in every employment agency I passed.
Today it was overcast and some drizzle, but I decided to have a
day off. I saddled up the bike and headed out through Richmond
Park to Kingston on the Thames River. There I crossed the river
and visited a once royal palace, Hampton Court. The gardens were
beautifully kept. I went into a couple of the outside rooms and
had a look but there was a tour fee so I missed the State
Apartments. I didn't take a camera due to the rain so I missed
some nice shots.
I rode back to London and tried the Manpower agency again but no
luck. I went to Baden-Powell House for dinner then caught the
Tube to Golders Green on the Edgware line. The Hippodrome Theatre
was big, like one of the old Odeons but the show was great and
full of hype. A revue type show with lots of singing and music
and comedy. Strange but although London has lots of theatres with
top rate shows, this one is still the most heavily booked. My
ticket was actually a cancellation. Crowds everywhere. A
highlight was a personal appearance by Ralph Reader, the
originator of the Gang Show. Sort of a living legend. Afterwards
I went back to Baden-Powell House and picked up the bike from the
basement, then rode home. Luckily it had stopped raining in the
afternoon.
Next day, Friday, I went back to BP House again and phoned
Manpower who said they had a job I could try! It was only one day
and for a driver, but it was worth a try. I had to race over to
Hammersmith by Tube to the agency and get the particulars, then
back to BP House to get the bike, then ride home to Putney, to
change. Then it was a ride to Fulham near BP House to the Canada
Dry factory (soft drinks) where I was told the job was for a
labourer. I couldn't cope with that, not physically, so I rode
away a little disgusted.
I walked the streets of Putney trying all the shops and
commercial premises and agencies and the little notice boards
about. At the department store in the High Street, called British
Home Stores (BHS for short), I struck pay dirt when I was offered
a job, full time! The department store had 2 retail floors and a
store room on top at the back. The job was a 'fruit porter',
basically to keep all the fruit and vege shelves stocked and to
remove the cardboard from the store plus clean up. Anything the
storeman supervisor required I should 'assist' him. The pay was
£3.10.0 per 40 hour week and I would start on Monday.
The shop manager seemed very nice, but new at his job. I was
'obviously' intelligent, he said, but didn't pry. It was a job
and money for me until I left, so I was happy. The hours were
long compared to home. Monday to Friday 8.30 to 5.30 and Saturday
(yes) 8.30 to 6pm! Thursday was a concession, only ½ a day as
this was Putney's half day trading. There was a 1 hour lunch
break and 2 smokos of a ¼ hour. Still with a hot lunch for 1/7d
(about 14c) and with staff discounts and only 10 minutes to work,
it's not so bad. Only obstacle was getting a National Insurance
card but a little wait at the Labour Exchange and some vague
talking to the officer, and I got an interim one. I went to
Manpower and told them and then was informed they had tried to
ring me at the boarding house with a job but had to let it go!
The landlord never told me he had had a call, so someone was
slack or telling lies. Still there was a one off job going to
night through manpower, to pack boxes, so I took it.
I waited on a corner in Putney, and a van screeched to a stop,
the back door flew open and in I climbed. There were 4 others
sitting in there on the floor, and off we raced like bank robbers
or something to a warehouse where we sat at a long table and
packed a book and literature into a postal package for mailing to
customers. It was for Concert Hall Record Club, which I belonged
to in Sydney. The work was boring but we talked and it was
interesting to hear the backgrounds of the others, about 6 of us,
as we worked. One fellow came from British Guyana in South
America (he was white), and you got an insight into living in a
hot place where there were more black people that whites. He was,
like most of the persons here, very street wise and had seen
life. We did 4 hours and would be paid 8/- hour, so that was
£1-12-0 by post next week. That's another saga I will mention later.
Then it was back into the van and a race to Putney to be bundled
out on a street corner. An interesting night anyway.
Next morning was Day 85 of my World Trip and dawned fine and not
too cold. I picked up my dry cleaning and laundry but noticed the
collars were still a little brown. Then it was off to buy an
alarm clock so I could get up in the morning. On the bike and
into London to Victoria Station area where I located the airline
office and cashed in my Amsterdam air ticket. A little reluctant
at first, I walked out with £9-18-0 in cash which was most
appreciated.
Then over to Buckingham Palace and was lucky to catch the
Changing of the Guard. A nice cycle up The Mall to Whitehall, the
government office area, and took in a visit of the Tate Gallery
which I had heard about. It was worth the visit. As I passed
Nelson's Column, I noticed flags decorating it and then
remembered that it was Trafalgar Day. Still loads of pigeons
about. Cycling was a good way to avoid the public transport
system and I headed for Westminster Abbey where I did a tour of
the Houses of Parliament and the Westminster Palace. This was
certainly a great sight seeing day. Everywhere they are getting
ready for the Queen's visit here on the 31st. It was all very
interesting and educational. After a look in the Abbey, I cycled
along the Millbank, following the Thames and into Battersea Park.
Here there was a scout rally in progress with all the usual scout
activities and some stalls. It was low key and I rated it fair to
average. The uniforms are not so uniform as in Australia with
every shade and cloth type imaginable.
I then had the urge to go back to the Tate Gallery and take in
some of the modern art and sculpture they had. The creative minds
the artists had was beyond me. Some Cubist Art from
Czechoslovakia was on display which was 'different'. I stopped
off at the Royal Festival Hall and picked up a ticket to a
Tyrolean night next Saturday. By now the rain had set in and it
was pouring. I rode home and arrived absolutely soaked, including
my shoes. The gas fire was using up sixpences to dry out my gear
and warm me. Then my pen ran out, so I gave up writing home. I had
gone through £92 since arriving here but it was worth it. Look,
the rain has stopped.
Sunday was fine and beautiful. You can't predict it. There were
even no clouds so I decided to do the right thing and go to
church. It was in the High Street and was called St. John the
Evangelist. The actual church had been burnt out so the service
was in the hall next door. Only 6 to 7 old ladies and maybe 3 to
4 men were in the congregation! Then there was a small choir,
wardens and 2 ministers. There are 4 services a day so maybe this
was a less popular one? I found it very High Church ritual, but
was told Matins (early morning prayer) was the same. The carrying
of crosses down the aisle and everybody crossing themselves was a
bit much.
I went back home and wrote a letter then headed off on the bike
to Baden-Powell House. From there I walked to the Albert and
Victoria Museum of Fine Art and then to the British Museum in
South Kensington. Back at BP House, I read till tea time then had
dinner. Tonight was another tourist attraction. I went to a
concert at the Royal Albert Hall, that huge round building I had
seen earlier. The Bournemouth Symphony Orchestra was playing
tonight, so I was entertained on waltz music, and all for 5/-.
Back at my boarding house I decided to have bath. To do this you
put the money in the gas meter and leave the water running and
hope no one pinches it. Then whilst you are in the bath, you hope
no one comes in to use the bathroom.
Today was my first day on the job at BHS as a fruit porter. The
job didn't seem too bad but was obviously a junior's job. I
carted and stacked fruit and stocked up other counters and carted
waste paper from the press upstairs down to the garbage shed
across the lane at the back. Lunch was only 1/7d but felt a
little browned off when they asked me to sweep floors as well.
I solaced myself after work by going to see 'Those Magnificent
Men in Their Flying Machines'. The weather is starting to get a
bit nippy but there was no rain today. In Canada the trees were
changing and shedding their leaves, but here they were still
green. Obviously Canada was much colder.
My second day at work went without incident. I was hoping for
some mail but none arrived. I wrote home but had to limit my
pages as I only had a 1/9d stamp. Another page would have put it
up to 3/6d!
The next day was fine to start but rained just as I was
finishing. My boat tickets arrived by mail, so I rode over to BP
House for a hot meal then took the Tube to Wimbledon where I was
able to visit the Motor Show at Earls Court. It cost nothing to
get in as I had a foreign passport. It was like the Sydney Show,
interesting and glittery but there were no commercial vehicles on
display.
Thursday was a short day, so as soon as 1pm arrived I was off. I
rode into the city and did some sight seeing before going to the
YHA HQ where I bought some small flags for all the countries I
had visited and would visit before I arrived back in Australia. A
quick stop at BP House then home where I did an illegal thing and
cooked frankfurts in my room. Rain on and off but there was some
mail. Oh life in a tiny room. After work next day (still wet!), I
went to a nearby scout meeting and watched, even running a game
or two. Very English sort of scout troop, but then being 3rd
Putney Group, I suppose it should. Actually there were several
scouters who were dropping in and interrupting the flow of the
meeting. Suppose I was one. Afterwards I went to the local
Wandsworth Borough Library and joined. This meant I could borrow
books and I took two home.
Saturday was wet but it would be pay day. They even had 2 juniors in today to help me, and I was glad as I had a cold. The pay packet had £10-19-4d in it, which after my board of £5-5-0d would leave me not a lot to live on. Tonight was when my ticket to the Festival Hall was to be used. I travelled in and saw the first half of the show on Austrian Tyrolean dancing, but with the way my cold was, decided to give the second half a miss. I had used British Rail tonight and
found it very quick. The rain continued and I went to bed feeling
washed out.
Next morning I was feeling much better and as the sun was again
shining, rode out up river into the country to Runnymede. This
was an historic spot for on this bit of England the great Magna
Carta was signed By King John, back in 1215. This was basically
the first time that a British monarch had conceded absolute power
and agreed to rule jointly with the people, at this time, the
nobles. It became the basis of Westminster type constitutional
democracy that exists today both in Britain and throughout the
British Commonwealth.
Also here is a part of the country that does not belong to the
British people. In 1963, the government gave one acre of this
land to the people of the United States of America as a memorial
to John F. Kennedy, who was assassinated on the 22nd November that
year. The actual memorial wall is fairly plain but very
dignified. Also here was a memorial built by the lawyers of the
USA, dedicated to the future of freedom and democracy through the
judicial system. From here it was up the Windsor Road to Windsor,
where the Queen has a large castle outside the city. The grounds
were very extensive and well kept with one entrance coming in
across acres and acres of rolling green land. The main entrance
is in the city through impressive stone archways and gates. I
took in a basic tour that included some large rooms, galleries
and the State Apartments, including the Grand Reception Room.
Just mind boggling and the splendour of it all was almost beyond
belief. I gave Queen Victoria's doll collection a miss and went
out to look about the town. Distress for me as I left the gate
for I lost both my maps of London and Britain. I went back inside
and asked but they had gone. Maps are precious to me, especially
as I had used these two so much. Oh well.
The town was interesting and contained the crookedest house in
Britain. It was 3 stories high and leaning at an angle. Weird.
There were many old and small buildings, some very narrow ones.
Then it was down to Eton College and strange to see the boys
wearing white bow ties, stripes, waistcoats and tails. In all,
Windsor was worth the visit. The ride home became difficult when
the heavens opened and I was saturated. Not only rain but hail as
well. I dried off and decided to go to the pictures, which are on
Sundays here as well. The 'Mikado' was on and since I knew the
music, having performed in it at school on the stage of the old
Civic Theatre in Parramatta, I enjoyed it. Some rice was cooked
on my gas ring and then bed.
Daylight saving finished yesterday so there was an extra hour's
sleep in before work. Even the sun was coming into my window
before I left for work. It was still a cold day though. Some
letters on the breakfast table for me from my parents and my
brother who had bought a big Vauxhall car and one from my mate's mum. Also there was an invitation to a friend's (Peter Robinson) 21st birthday. Only problem was he sent it by sea mail and the party
was last September! A quick read then a day stacking fruit. I
rang Manpower during lunch to remind them of my money from the
book packing and also found out from the boat company that the
boat arrived into Sydney at 4am! By the time work was over, it
was pitch black. Next day after work I decided to go to the
pictures again (2 cinemas in Putney) and saw 'For a Few Dollars
More' with Clint Eastwood. Not bad. Another barney between the
landlord and his wife tonight. My mum had sent me some Christmas
bush, so it sat in a prominent place on my mantle piece. I would
dearly love to get a phone call from home but I know it costs the
earth to ring (at least $12 for 3 minutes) so letters will have
to do. I'm out of the political situation at home but there was a
mention somewhere that Harold Holt was being unpopular again.
On Wednesday, BHS gave me a half day off for last week, but it
was so cold I went home and sat in my sleeping bag, reading. at
night I went out for a short visit, seeing a