Kashi (also known as Kashgar) is where the northern and southern branches of the Silk Road come back together after they have skirted the Taklimakan Desert. When you get there, you are almost in Central Asia. Indeed, most of the locals would say you are already there. The tribal lands of Pakistan are only a short distance to the south and Afghanistan is not much further away.
The people are Uighurs Unlike Urumqi, their ancient city is relatively untouched by the wave of change that has swept over eastern China. Most houses are built in the old mud-brick fashion and have flat roofs. Modern buildings echo the architectural styles of the region with pointed arches and other Islamic features. Almost all the women wear Islamic dress and many are veiled.
The city heart is dominated by the Id Kah Mosque, which is the largest mosque in China. The impressive building dates from the 17th century and contains the tomb of the revered Abakh Khoja. The mosque is the holiest site in the region and a famous pilgrim destination.
Going to Kashi is not as straightforward as visiting other parts of China. Special permits are required and accommodation is not as plentiful as elsewhere. I have friends who made the trip as independent travellers. My wife refused to join them. We went with an organised group and stayed in one of the top hotels. I feel bound to report that the standards of hygiene were not the greatest and we had stomach upsets despite taking precautions.
Nevertheless, I found the people friendly and did not feel insecure. The culture really is different. If you want an idea of what Afghanistan is like and don't want to run the risk of going there then you might consider Kashi.
The city is located in an arid region and owes its existence to the waters that flow down from the Tien Shan (Mountains of Heaven). They are distributed through an ancient underground irrigation system that keeps the watertable near the surface.
Kashi is famous for its market. If you are planning a trip, I would strongly recommend that you time it to coincide with the farmers’ market day. People flood in from the neighbouring countryside. It's a marvellous chance to see a way of life that was alive in the West until the big supermarkets came to dominate the distribution chain and dictate to producers.
If you go, you will see farmers negotiating the sale of livestock. They communicate with their hands, which they keep hidden under a cloak, and don't say a word. That way, others don't know what price was agreed. You will also see fat-tailed sheep. When they are butchered, the tails are left on so that customers will know they are buying mutton and not goat.
I took hundreds of photographs in Kashi. If you go, don't forget to take your camera.
One small tip: While most of the people are friendly, some market traders show impatience with foreigners haggling over things they don't intend to buy. Some even get angry when they won't agree to pay an extortionate price for something they want.