Once Around the World: alone as a young woman through Africa by Michaela Gruber - HTML preview

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4.2 Transport

 

How do you get from A to B in Africa? It is much easier than you might think, because there is public transport almost everywhere.

The next thing most people probably worry about is, how safe it is. Personally, I have to say that I never felt seriously at risk on public transport. Road traffic is nowhere 100 percent safe anywhere in the world. Everywhere, accidents happen each single day.

Having traveled several countries during the rainy season, flooded roads have often been the biggest problem. Also many roads in Africa are unpaved.

 

Below is a small selection of the most common means of transport in the countries I have traveled:

 

Moped taxis

Especially in Uganda's capital Kampala, the moped taxi – also called Boda-Boda – is very popular, because the traffic chaos there is simply the absolute horror. With minibuses you can be stuck forever in a traffic jam.

 

Moped taxis can get through these situations easily. I do not have to mention that there are some dangerous situations, now and then. In any case, some Boda-Boda riders are driving through the streets as if a wild monkey bit them. In such situations, do not hesitate to ask the driver to drive a little slower. If he does not comply, it is best to stop immediately. Sometimes, I had the feeling that the boys just wanted to show off their driving skills. But when I pointed out to them that I did not like it that much, they almost immediately throttled their speed.

 

The moped taxis can be found in Kampala and in some other African cities pretty much everywhere on the street. Simply wave your hand to get their attention. Others will also impose themselves on you.

 

It is always important to negotiate the price in advance. You should better ask other locals in advance, how much the planned route may cost. This avoids unpleasant rip offs.

 

Minibuses and buses

In addition to the moped taxis, there are usually also minibuses and large buses. Minibuses travel both in the cities and on longer journeys. The big buses are only for long hauls.

 

The minibuses – sometimes also the big buses – usually only leave when they are full. And I mean really full! So much, that they are stuffed with people, as well as, live chickens, and sometimes even goats, until there is really no space left.

It even happened to me that the driver simply put a few heavy vegetable bags of another passenger on my lap, because there would not have been any other space for them. My seatmate held on to five live chickens with his hands, which were tied together by their legs.

The larger loads are usually tied to the roof, so it sometimes even bulges down due to the weight.

 

So you see, sometimes, things in Africa can get pretty adventurous. But the people are incredibly friendly and usually immediately involve you in a conversation, or you will be bombarded with questions. If that is too stressful for you, then it is best to always have headphones with you.

 

Taxis

In addition to moped taxis, buses, and minibuses, there are also normal taxis in the cities. These are usually a bit more expensive. Again, the price should be negotiated beforehand, so it does not come to unpleasant surprises at the end of your ride.

In addition, it would be advisable to take only official taxis for security reasons. Which are the best, you will learn from locals, or you can read in your guide.

 

Bicycle taxis

What I found very unusual, were bicycle taxis, which I saw on my journey only in Malawi. They are basically normal bikes. You wave at the driver, negotiate the price, and then sit down on the baggage rack. Wearing a dress or a skirt, you have to sit crosswise, which can be pretty shaky while driving. But the drivers are fortunately practiced enough.

This means of transport is only suitable for shorter distances and not really the most comfortable.

 

Hitchhiking

In some African countries, hitchhiking is very common. Especially in Botswana and Namibia, I had to travel like this several times, because there simply was no public transport on my planned route. I simply stood in front of a petrol station and asked the drivers of arriving vehicles, where they would go.

Or I stood directly besides the street. The advantage at the gas station is that you can choose drivers. If someone does not seem particularly trustworthy, then you can just leave it alone and wait for the next one to arrive. You never know who stops at the street. Of course, there is also the possibility to say "no".

 

Carpooling

Otherwise, there are often carpools for routes where public transport is not available. It is best to ask at the gas stations, as they usually leave from there as soon as they are full. These are normal cars with a private driver, who wants some change for his services.

 

Ferries or boats

Another option is to travel via a ferry or boat.

For example, I crossed Lake Victoria on a ferry. It was not so easy, since I wanted to go from Bukoba to Mwanza. Both places are located in Tanzania. I bought my ticket for the ferry at about ten o'clock that day. The nice ticket vendor told me that I should come back today at eight o'clock, because the departure would be at nine o'clock.

I relaxed after lunch on the beach of Lake Victoria, when I suddenly saw the big ferry leaving. I thought that was a bit weird, because actually there is only one ferry leaving twice a week and so it was the only one scheduled to leave today at eight o'clock in the evening. I asked the owner of my accommodation. He explained that this was probably my ferry that left. Oh my god! The man at the port had clearly said that it would leave at eight.

The owner of my accommodation began to educate me about the Swahili time. The sunrise, which here at the equator takes place around at the same time all year – namely at six o'clock in the morning – is zero o’clock. As a result, seven o'clock in the morning is one o’clock and so on. The ticket seller meant eight o'clock in Swahili time, which corresponded to four o'clock in normal time. Great! So I had to wait another three days here in Bukoba, until the next ferry left. My tip to you: Always ask in Tanzania if the Swahili time or the normal time is meant.

 

Trains

There are also a few train routes in Africa. For example, one of them leads from Tanzania to Zambia. Unfortunately, the train does not depart every day, and you have to buy the ticket in advance. That is exactly why my planned train journey failed. All tickets were sold out, and I did not want to wait another three days.

 

The second time I was in Namibia, it all worked out. But then, unfortunately, it was a night train, so I could not see much of the area. You also have to expect that the trains need a lot longer than the buses and, in addition, almost always are delayed. My train needed full 12 hours, whereas the corresponding bus ride would have just taken four hours. At least it was worth the experience.

 

Car rental

If you prefer to drive yourself, you can also rent a car. However, I would advise you to do so only in countries with good road conditions. In South Africa, it is definitely not a problem. But keep in mind that many countries have left-hand traffic and that you need an international driver's license.

 

Image

Central bus station in Kampala (Uganda)