Once Around the World: alone as a young woman through Africa by Michaela Gruber - HTML preview

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4.6 Crossing borders

 

How do you get from one country to the next?

This is quite simple, as in most cases there is public transport to the borders. At the border you get out, do the border formalities, and you get back on a bus on the other side of the border.

Occasionally, there are even long-distance buses that will drop you off on one side of the border and then wait for you on the other side after completing all border formalities. This has the advantage that you do not have to carry your big backpack across the border. I only once had the pleasure of traveling with a long-distance bus when I went from Namibia to South Africa.

 

The exact procedure at the borders looks more or less like this:

First and foremost, find out about the border formalities on the website of the Foreign Office. How much does the visa cost? What do you need to get the visa? Maybe you have to pay in US dollars? Please also inquire in advance about the opening hours of the border posts, as they sometimes close at 17 o’clock.

 

Then you take a bus to the border.

 

You get off the bus and go to the first border post. There you will get the exit stamp of your current destination, and you may have to fill out a form asking for how long you have been in the country, etc.

 

After you got the exit stamp, you have to walk to the next border post. Sometimes this can be a longer walk.

 

On the way there, a security guard who wants to check your passport, might stop you.

 

It may well be that you will be besieged by a few stubborn moneychangers. I always thought the exchange rate at the border was okay. Nevertheless, inform yourself in advance, what the current rate is.

 

When you arrive at the next border post, you will need to fill out a form with questions about your expected length of stay and your personal details. You also pay for the visa – if one is necessary. Often only US dollars are accepted.

 

The entry stamp will be stamped in your passport.

 

You did it! Now you should be looking for a bus that will take you to your next destination.

 

For the first one or two times, such border crossings are still quite complicated and frightening. But you will get routine in it. It is actually quite simple. Nevertheless, it can sometimes be quite time consuming. Again and again, it happened to me that I first of all had to find a border official and then even had to wake them up.

 

I found it especially funny on the border from Tanzania to Malawi – I was traveling with two traveling acquaintances at the time. The border guards were enjoying their afternoon nap with loose-fluffy Robbie Williams music.

They were not particularly disturbed by our arrival. We had to wait two hours for our visa, even though we were the only people who wanted to cross the border.

 

What if a proof of continuation of your journey is required at the border?

This question has long occupied me before my journey. On the information pages of the German Federal Foreign Office, it is noted in almost all countries that entry is only permitted if there is a proof of continuation of your journey. But how should you do that if you do not know when or where to leave?

 

Before I traveled to Uganda, I bought a cheap bus ticket from Uganda to Kenya online to show it on demand. Since then, however, no one asked for it when entering anyway, so I stopped buying tickets in advance when entering the next countries.

From my own experience and the conversations with other backpackers, I can tell you that when crossing a border over the country road, usually no one asks for it. The only ones who usually want to see proof of onward travel are airlines on international flights, since they are not allowed to board people without it.

 

If you want to play it safe, you can buy a cheap bus ticket online and let it expire. As airlines often do not accept a bus ticket, you can alternatively book a cancelable flight.