DURING the night we were rocked in the cradle of the deep, even at our anchorage, by the north-west wind, which blew strongly; and at an early hour in the morning, the anchor was weighed, and we steamed steadily through the Pentland Firth, generally a tempestuous passage, and then northward past the rugged islet of Copinsay, with its myriads of sea-birds, into Shapinsay Sound. Balfour Castle, on the island of Shapinsay, was the most prominent object in the landscape. One is apt to wonder how the massive building came there, so inconsistent is its pretentious appearance with its bare and cheerless surroundings. By-and-by we anchored in Kirkwall Roads, and every one, as quickly as possible, was transferred to land in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and the steam launch, or the attendant gigs.
Kirkwall is not a very stirring or lively place, but it has an old-world flavour, which makes a visit to it pleasant and memorable. Its narrow and tortuous streets, paved with flags, its old-fashioned houses, many of them with secluded courts, and presenting their gables to the sea, and most of all its ancient Cathedral, invest it with a peculiar interest.
The Cathedral forms, of course, its chief attraction. This building, which is the most conspicuous object in the town, as seen either from the sea or from the land, dates from the twelfth century, having been founded by Jarl Rognvald in 1137, in memory of his uncle, St. Magnus. Its style is chiefly Norman, but it contains many features of the Pointed Gothic or Early English style, which makes it extremely interesting to the antiquary and the architect, resembling in that respect the famous Cathedral of Trondhjem, which belongs to the same period. Outwardly, it is wonderfully well preserved. Though really a very small building of its kind—a cathedral in miniature,—its parts are so well proportioned that it has almost an imposing appearance. Worthy of special notice are the great east window, which Sir Henry Dryden believed to be unique; the circular window in the south transept; and the carving of the west door, which Dryden refers to as probably the finest example in the British Islands of the effective combination of particoloured stones. But the delicate floral work in the arch of the doorway is now much weather-worn, and the fine pillars are wasted to skeletons. The tower, to which we mounted, commands a splendid view of the town and bay and the surrounding islands.
From the Cathedral we passed to the Bishop’s Palace, part of which is probably as old as the Cathedral itself, though the greater part is known to have been built in the sixteenth century by Bishop Reid, who made additions to the Cathedral also. In the older part of this palace King Haco died on his return from Largs, and his remains lay for a time within the Cathedral.
Still more interesting are the remains of the Earl’s Palace, which stands to the east of the last-named building. It was erected by the notorious Earl Patrick Stewart—“Black Pate”—about 1590. He was the son of Lord Robert Stewart (a natural son of James V.), Earl of Orkney. Black Pate also built Scalloway Castle in Shetland; and in the erection of both he levied contributions from his vassals and retainers without stint, requiring them not only to furnish the materials in stone, lime and eggs, with which the mortar was mixed, but also to work like slaves under his command: hence his by-name, “The Scourge of the Islands.” By-and-by his notorious deeds became known in Edinburgh, and he was captured, and ended his career on the gallows.
He must, however, have been a man of fine taste and grand notions, if we are to judge by the architectural features of his palace. It is really a fine specimen of the Scottish baronial style, many of the details of ornament—in round turrets, quaint gables, and projecting windows—being beautiful, especially as seen through the grove of sycamore-trees which surrounds the building. A remarkable feature is a level arch over one of the great fireplaces in the banqueting hall, on either side of which the initials “P.E.O.” (Patrick, Earl of Orkney) may still be seen. This is one of the best examples of the straight arch in Scotland.
The day being exceedingly fine, a large contingent enjoyed a drive along the Stromness road to Maeshowe and the Stones of Brogar and Stenness.
Maeshowe is an unique chambered mound, and is one of the most interesting of the many interesting antiquities of Orkney. The mound is 36 feet high and 300 feet in circumference. The central chamber (15 feet square) is built of solid blocks of stone. The roof is of bee-hive shape, and in the walls there are on three sides deep cells or shelves 5 or 6 feet long. It is reached by a long and narrow passage, and as the whole is underground, it has to be explored by candle-light. The position and the dimensions of the cells suggest a place of burial, such as the early Britons used; but the numerous inscriptions on the walls are Runic and Norse. There has therefore been a great deal of discussion as to the purpose of the building; but the general belief now is that it was originally a Pictish sepulchre, and that it was broken into by the Norsemen after the ninth century, and was used by them as a place of refuge, and for the concealment of treasure.
A mile and a half farther on are the two celebrated stone circles, called respectively the Ring of Brogar and the Ring of Stenness. The latter is the smaller, though it has given its name to the whole. According to our own Antiquary, who accompanied the party, that circle was 104 feet in diameter, and consisted originally of twelve stones, of which only two are standing. The Ring of Brogar, according to the same authority, was 340 feet in diameter, and comprised sixty stones, of which thirteen are standing, while ten others, though they have fallen, are still entire. We were assured that these are the finest stone circles in Scotland, far surpassing in extent the Stones of Callernish in Lewis, and comparing favourably with the more famous remains of Stonehenge. As to the purpose of these circles, we were left to solve the mystery for ourselves, being warned, however, that their connection with Druidical worship is now discredited.
One of the most famous of these monoliths was the Stone of Odin in the Stenness circle, now no longer erect. It was perforated by a hole, about five feet from the ground, and was regarded with the utmost veneration, being used (as the readers of Scott’s Pirate will remember) as the place where lovers plighted their troth by clasping hands through the aperture. The stones in the case of both circles are of the Old Red Sandstone formation.
