I figured I could roll all my thoughts on my findings of Italian cuisine into one bumper section, partly because I’m finding it hard to mentally separate Rome to Venice, or Modena to Bologna in terms of food. This might be further evidence of my disorganized methods or sieve-esque memory, but perhaps it’s quite telling of what I found to be the Italian food scene, in the five places I visited there; all were quite similar.
Of course I know there to be great regional diversity in Italy, regional cuisine that are of great pride to its citizens. But from my own experiences and from places I was able to find and eat in, this holds true. I just thought I should point that out! Any mafia out there reading, I mean you no disrespect and I’d like to say I thought you all came across really well in that Godfather trilogy thing. Also, the food of Sicily is my favourite...
I structured my whole two weeks in Italy, around a visit to what was the world’s third best restaurant, the three Michelin starred Osteria Francescana (more on this later). So out went Cinque Terre and Milan, and in came Bologna and Modena.
Not to state the obvious, but Italy is certainly the place to go if you want to eat Italian food... just Italian food. You couldn't move for pizza joints! I did once stumble across a tiny, ever so slightly dingy looking Sri Lankan restaurant, with restaurant being used in its most stretched form. I didn’t eat there.
But as I say, if you go to Italy for Italian food, you will not be disappointed. I found the pizzas to be wholly satisfying, even in places that I chose to eat in for purely money saving purposes; pizzas are a pleasingly cheap dining option; four euros or so was the going rate.
I was a little naive with my Italian portion size awareness. I often forgot that pasta is usually served as a starter. This caught me out a few times, particularly in the infancy of my Italian leg. This is probably why I went through such a huge quantity of tiramisus in an attempt to silence my stomachs yearning for fulfillment... though of course that wasn’t the sole reason.
I will now post the pictures of all the tiramisus I ate on my travels below, it shocked me; both the sheer number I ate and also that I haven’t since died of a tiramisu induced heart attack. Bear in mind, the below collection is missing a few tiramisus, as I only started documenting the number I was eating when I realized it was getting slightly out of hand!
Exciting insight: the two best tiramisus were eaten in Rome. Perhaps surprisingly, Ghent was home to the third best tiramisu I consumed.
Ridiculous really, but oh so delicious.
Quite interesting how many different variations I was served. Well interesting to me anyway, after-all I’ll probably end up doing my dissertation on ‘the history of tiramisu’, which I will ensure involves a lot of practical research!
As explained in the introduction, the motivation behind this trip was to eat, this meaning I had to make certain concessions, saving time and money on things that could impede on my food indulgences. If the entrance to see Michelangelo’s David was too high, I would graciously decline the admission, saving my money for an extra course at dinner*. This all to ensure I could give you the reader as much detail on the European food scene as possible. A true act of altruism in many ways, you’re welcome!
*To my fellow uncultured types reading this, there’s a replica of the David statue nearby the real one, which was impressive enough... if you like that sort of thing. As well as this, the location was perfect, with free Wifi on offer. This particularly handy as I had yet to find my eating place for that night, cheers Dave! Always rated that Michelangelo fella, he’ll get somewhere one day!
Anyway, reviews time.
Via Cartoleria, 10, 40124 Bologna, Italy
My old man had booked to meet me during my travels in Bologna, for what above all was a long culinary weekend. Second to this, was a chance to see me; I’m not silly dad, but I completely understand! My dad was given the name of this restaurant via one of his Italian work colleagues and the meal I had here sticks out above many others from my trip.
The first thing you notice when entering is that the restaurant is a converted chemist. The second thing is how there is no menu, but instead a long speech from the waiter and if your memory isn’t up to it, you’ll just have to have the last thing the waiter says (I speak from experience!) Then you’ll notice how the sommelier doesn’t seem to be doing very much sommeliering at all. In fact, he doesn’t seem to be doing anything, at all and just stands there with a glass of wine in hand ... all night. In fairness, I say he didn’t do anything all night, he did top his own glass up with professional efficiency... all night.
This all added to what was a wonderfully unique atmosphere; a relaxed, Italian family dining room feel. A free glass of Prosecco and appetizer later, we were sold. It isn’t just the food that lingers long in the memory at Drogheria Della Rossa, but that old word ambience, whatever that means, but it had a lovely one!
Saying this, I have fond memories of the desserts. Mine an almond semifredo. My dad’s a plate of mascarpone, apricots and dark chocolate drops. If I had to choose one moment I was really pleased that my dad came to meet me, it was when he let me finish off his pudding that night (I jest of course)... when he insisted on paying the bill at Osteria Francescana just pips it! My dad’s dish was a bit of a revelation for me, perhaps the simplest dish in its preparation I consumed during my five weeks in Europe and yet due to the freshness and quality of the ingredients, also one of the tastiest. I mean I don’t even like apricots! But these were apricots on steroids compared to the inferior variety I’ve had back home, which ironically probably do actually contain steroids (ooh food politics!).
Our meal lasted three hours, an hour per course (the education system hasn’t failed me!) Occasional glances towards the sommelier and you’ll see him still getting drunk of his own wine suggestions. He took the “oh wait, let me try it first to see if its good enough” to a whole new level.
I mustn't forget about the owner. If an alien came down to earth and he wanted to know what a stereotypical Italian Grandpa was like (you never know, it’s not an out of this world suggestion...), the owner of Drogheria Della Rossa would be the man to show them. He spent the night going table to table, making customers laugh, treating diners as his own family. He even cradled a baby until it stopped crying! He was like a modern day, slightly balding, Italian Jesus.
Must go rating:
8/10 - A very solid meal, made special by the restaurant’s atmosphere and staff.
Via S. Simone, 1/c, 40126 Bologna, Italy
Bearing in mind that I was only in Bologna for two nights, two of the restaurants I felt I had to review were meals I had from here. That’s a 100% record for Bologna! Well played my son.
For my second meal in Bologna, a starter of squid, pea puree and tomatoes was solid. The tomatoes deserve a special mention. They were so sweet, cooked to a point where they just held their shape, but were soft and gooey on the inside and so when eaten, were like a posh and far superior ketchup. The squid was possibly a smidgen overcooked, but I’m knit picking. 7.5/10
My main of Pacheri Verginni (a wide tubular pasta) with currants and salt olives offered a masterclass in how to prepare and cook pasta. I’ve eaten a lot of pasta in my time (not least in my first year at University) and this blew everything else out the (pasta) water. The accompaniments were very simple and rightfully so; like a good piece of steak or the freshest fillet of tuna, quality pasta is a divine ingredient in it’s own right and can be left to its own devices, with very little interference needed to produce a taste sensation. 9/10
I was given a tiny panacotta pre-dessert on the house, which was delightful. Though I always think I could be served jelly* and I would still enthuse, due to the excitement that is receiving a pre-dessert.
* I don’t like jelly. Not even when I was a child. I’ve never eaten a trifle.
Whilst in Italy, dessert time invariably meant tiramisu time; saying that, I had my fair share of tiramisu’s during the non-Italy legs of my trip as well. Despite an interesting and delicious sounding dessert menu, tiramisu has a hold over my heart like no other dish. Thus with little real debate I chose to continue dwindling Italy’s supply of the great dessert. If there is ever a tiramisu shortage I will feel personally responsible and also extremely emotional. Ristorante Ciacco certainly put their own stamp on the classic dessert. A chocolate mousse, covered by a thin layer of coffee mousse, this topped by an airy, whipped cream. Not the sort of whipped cream that can be found in canisters, that a young couple may have a little fun with; no this was grown up, carefully exacted whipped cream. Coffee permeated throughout the dish with quite a punch considering the delicacy of the mousse it came from. Despite veering from tradition, Restaurant Ciacco did a fine job with their reinvention of my favourite dessert. 8/10
All in all, a quite gorgeous meal.
Must go rating:
8.5/10
Salizada S.Giovanni Grisostomo, Cannaregio, 5719, 30121 Venezia, Italy
Never have I enjoyed food so much purely for precision of cooking and expert seasoning than I did when dining at Ristorante Fiaschetteria.
I had a big plate of calamari for me starters. They having a perfectly crispy exterior with a succulent, chew-less interior. It was seasoned as if salted by a master chippy in Brighton (this is a good thing, generally) and it was just plain delicious.
I ordered a side of sautéed vegetables, again executed to perfection. Just crisp enough and seasoned superbly. Vegetables of the highest quality, fresh and surprisingly tasty; showcasing the majesty of just what vegetables can be in the right hands. It made me briefly consider vegetarianism for a while... then I went back in for some more calamari.
It was an old fashioned restaurant in many ways, with emphasis on smart, punctual service and simple, precise, traditional food. I shared the restaurant with a couple so English they were a personification of the restaurant itself... except in not being Italian, hear me out. Ristorante Fiaschetteria was clearly a usual stomping ground for the couple, asking around for certain waiters and the like. They provided a bit of humour to the night, what with the man ordering for his wife, ‘my wife will have’, alongside quotes including, ‘say my name and you’ll get a table there’. It was like watching my very own sitcom, a bit like ‘Alan Partridge in Italy’. Though unfortunately, I can’t guarantee a visit to this restaurant will provide you with the same Partridge-esque experience. However, mention the man’s name and you will get a table.
Dessert of Pistachio tart was as good as it looks. Although, I’m aware my photos probably don’t quite do justice to much of the food I’ve described so far. Ok, fine, it tasted better than it looks in this photo, but in real life it was as good as it looked. I hope that is clear now...!
Must go rating:
8/10
Corso Cavour, 39, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Fabulous pasta served simply with a beautiful ragú. Coupled with friendly service and decent value. What more can I say!
And no, I don’t just write that because I’m now starting to run out of ways to describe food differently, thank you very much!
Must go rating:
7/10
Piazza Mazzini Giuseppe, 17, 41121 Modena MO, Italy
Emilia Cremeria; home to the best looking gelato you’ll (I’ll) ever see. A granita I had the day before was decent enough, but the gelato is where it’s at. I even broke one of my life rules, one that had previously been upheld more than any other; always a tub never a cone! Unfortunately Emilia’s Cremeria didn’t see me coming and I very almost turned down the chance of the best looking food I’d seen in about a day (this being the day after Osteria Francescana). I’ve now slightly modified my zero ice-cream cone policy to allow for cone buying in such special circumstances like this. Truly amazing ice cream. It also provided me with the best picture I’ve ever taken.
Isn’t it beautiful!
Must go rating:
9.5/10
Via Marchesana, 6, 40124 Bologna, Italy
The best food I ate in Italy was when restaurants stuck to simplicity, using fresh, quality ingredients. Ristorante 7 Archi certainly did this. Rather embarrassingly I can’t recall what I actually ate here, only that is was tasty. Some would say I should have left this out, but I have a word count to reach, so I thought it best just to keep it in. Despite my failing memory, I am sure this restaurant still holds as a good recommendation if you are ever in Bologna. So, just to reiterate, yes I would recommend this restaurant, yes, I most certainly would!
Must go rating:
8/10
Having just said all of this about Italian food being best when at its simplest... It is actually at its best at Osteria Francescana, review of which is on the next page ; now that’s what you call a segway!