Canned Roaddust by Jozsef Komaromi - HTML preview

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Chapter 10 Aid-Expert

He who has taken this account into his hands and decided to

read it through, might agree with me that of all my experiences the

following line of events had been the most deciding for the forming

of my present way of thinking. If I were a pious believer I could say

that Providence had selected some people to help me in taking this

road. But, as I am not, I keep exclusively the accidental sequence of

unavoidable chain of the events responsible for making my life

richer by the experiences I tell you in the followings.

Towards the end of 1966 I had an encounter in the workshop of

the Hungarian Shipping Company where I worked as an engineer

that would highly influence my life in the future. One day I went to

see, how the assembly of the 250-HP Z-drive (a big outboard

engine for the independent propulsion of ordinary river barges),

whose plans and calculations had been mainly my work, stood.

Manual assembly work has been done by an old man, who had an

extremely high authority among his fellow mechanics. He said:

“It is a good design. But I suppose you have not done too much

assembly work.”

“Thank you”, I said, “how did you guess it?”

“Some parts are nearly native!” Native parts meant in our slang,

they are impossible to be put to place, better to “manufacture them

inside”.

“Well”, I said, “you can help us to correct our mistakes.”

He told me then that he was an engineer, but, as he was a good

mechanic, by manual work he could get more money than by engin-

eering. He also told me, he had been working all over the world at

my age.

“I would catch a train and go where I could to get more money.

And seeing the world was a fun, too.”

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“You could do it then”, I answered, ”but how to do it now?”

Well, don't forget, it was 1966, it was an exceptional thing to get

abroad even to Czechoslovakia by the travel agency IBUSZ. He

showed me a newspaper, some weeks old, and an information in it.

It stated that a new state foreign trade company had been created.

Named TESCO, it was to export mental values, i.e. to sell licences

of our inventions and to send educated people to countries in need

of them.

“This is your chance”, he said.

Actually, it was. At the next possibility I turned to my acquaint-

ance in the ministry -- he had been the man to make the agreement

with me for scholarship in the company four years before --, and

asked him about it. He said:

“It is started always by TESCO. They send us letters and ask for

our suggestion for skilled people.”

“Could you suggest me next time?”

“You would have to speak English on a high level.”

We agreed, I would study English and come back.

It has happened, at least the first half of it. My coming back be-

came a little late. I had been visiting English lessons and preparing

for a high degree examination for four years and then I started to

work overtime in translation. It took almost all my energy and the

question of my TESCO-assignment had been sent to sleep. After

that an accident pushed me return to the topic.

In the spring of 1974 my ankle got twisted, my brother-in-law

took me to the emergency and I had to endure two months at home

in plaster. Before I took up work following the removal of the plaster

from my leg, one day a thought came into my mind: “Actually why

did I begin to learn English?” Yes, to be able to apply for a TESCO

expert mission somewhere in the world. Why the hell then do I sit

here and do not try to get a mission.

I took the telephone register and looked up the phone numbers

and address of TESCO. I caught a bus and then limped to the office

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building. The gate-keeper showed me to the responsible clerk and

she offered me a place to sit down. She was very busy and made

me wait. When she finished her typing she asked:

“Are you looking for an assignment?”

“Yes”, I said, “is there a possibility?”

She informed me that she was organising new assignments for

two countries, Libya and Iraq. There were others in charge for other

countries, but no English-speaking experts were needed that time

anywhere else.

She also told me that there were good perspectives for me, only

I had to choose between Iraq and Libya. Not long before there was

an air raid by Israeli planes that resulted in the damage of an Iraqi

nuclear plant in construction. That meant, Iraq was not safe enough

for me. I chose Libya.

I had to give in translations and copies about my certificates and

my CV. They accepted my application, and permission process --

first by my employer, then by the ministry in charge -- has been

launched. In a couple of months I was called to a week-long training

course about the unusual conditions. It included also the lecture of

an interior official about intelligence and counter-intelligence. In

special briefings we have got the necessary every-day information

from experts being at home on holiday from Libya.

There remained a waiting period of some months until in 1975

we would be sent to the spot. Anyway, nothing came out of it. At the

finish, as our passports would be under issue, Mr Gromyko would

visit Libyia in the spring of 1975. It would be followed by a refusal

from the part of Libya to all our experts' missions. I did not want to let

my TESCO mission go asleep forever and went again to the clerk.

She was sorry not to be able to help, but she did not stop at that and

introduced me to a middle-aged lady -- she has been the wife of a

diplomat -- who dealt with Ethiopia.

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Ethiopian hopes

First it was a very peculiar conversation. She said after listening

to her colleague and scanning me with her sight:

“Recently a man has returned from there, as he had heard

somebody speak about shootings. You do not look a die-hard man

either.”

This impertinence drove up my blood pressure, but I tried to

keep my manner. I said to her all smiles:

“He was one man and I am another. Would you let me try it

before judging me?”

“All right, I did not mean to hurt your pride. But there goes a war

there, you can know that, if you are following the events.”

It was the spring of 1977 and the time of war between Somalia

and Ethiopia.

She became more friendly soon and asked me about the exact

practice I had.

“I am an engineer of transport and vehicles, but I have a wide

experience, especially in civil engineering.”

“A mechanical engineer has been asked for by the university

and there is need for an engineer on automotive field. Also they

need a civil engineer in the Ministry of Construction.” She was

leafing through her papers. “Do you have a CV with you?”

I gave her my Curriculum Vitae in English.

“Well”, she said, “call me by phone in two days.”

At least I saw a faint hope.

When I called her, she was again her former self.

“You have given me a CV that is good for nothing”, she was

shouting, “you have to re-write it and concentrate on what you did

and not on where.” My CV really listed my employers and may be, I

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did not make my activities clear enough.

I re-formulated it and brought it to her.

“OK”, she said, “it will do.”

“When can I know something?” I asked.

“It is slow work”, she answered, ”in two months our offer about

the new experts will be in the hands of the Supreme Council.” She

meant the military junta around Menghistu. “Be convinced, if you

are needed, you would go there.”

She has done a good work and, although I did not know it at that

time, I have found a sponsor in the person of the soon-to-be repres-

entative of TESCO in Ethiopia. He would go there in a month and

would take with him the papers.

Some months had passed. I got a call from the executive at

TESCO that the Ethiopian authorities had accepted my person, and

the authorisation process at the Ministry of Industry has been

launched. The lady also informed me that I was offered on the first

place to the university and the offer was accepted. Our ministry

would ask the company for my transfer to their personnel and it

could take half a year. I had a dilemma then: did I have to advise my

bosses about it or wait, until they would be informed by the ministry.

I waited and it was good. In a few months I got into a bad situation

and would have to leave the company, as during this half year there

had happened other things, too. At my employer feudal conditions

had been becoming stronger, the closed clique having come into life

somewhat earlier was stepping on every potential competitor, either

for being afraid of their abilities, or simply, because they wouldn't

line up behind the group. I felt a double danger for both reasons. A

rejection or disagreement from the part of the employer could have

been fatal for my mission.

I informed TESCO about my move. The woman was angry first,

but promised me to re-route the transfer documents of the ministry

to my new workplace. However, there was a great risk in getting the

consent of management in a new place. Anyway, as I was visiting

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my would-be boss once more, I informed him of two points: that I

had been given permission from the shipyard to apply for an all-day

intensive course of Russian, it would last from the middle of June a

whole month, thus being a burden on my working time for two

weeks at my new employer, and that I had been selected for the

abroad mission and for it there was a certain probability to come

true. My boss said OK, he would not block my way. This has

happened as he said, I experienced an absolutely honest behaviour

both from his part and from the part of the responsible manager.

I had been working for one year for my new employer, the

Machine Tool Works, when the official process was finished. In the

meantime I had done some short business trips to several count-

ries, about them I have given account. Arriving from Moscow in

March 1979 at my workplace, my colleagues received me with

mixed remarks. I learned that the Personnel Director had got a letter

from the ministry about my transfer.

“Is there any problem?” I asked dr. K.

“Oh, yes”, he said, “that country is very hot, you are not advised

to go there.” He said it with an earnest face, but he was joking.

“But, please, tell me, if there is any obstacle.” I have not been

assured.

“Well”, he said, “you told me it was not very probable you would

succeed.”

“I am waiting for 12 years for this possibility.” It was true and

false at the same time.

“You spoke me about it at the beginning. I told the director I

would not block your way.”

I began to feel better. He told me, the paper has been sent back

to the ministry signed. But he was resenting the business.

I called the lady in TESCO. She was in a good mood.

“You shall come to me and give me the necessary photographs

for your passports”, she said, “and you have to take part in a brief-

ing.”

I told her I had taken part already years before. She did not

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insist. She said my trip was expected in June.

My wife was very happy from the news that our dreams at last

could come true. In two days her humour turned to worse. I had to

speak to the executive taking care of experts abroad. She said I

would have to travel without my family. Only after I got my housing

facilities would they permit my family to follow me. I promised my

wife I would do everything to help her follow me as soon as possible.

At the company it was known as a fact that I would leave for

Africa. On my place a young man was found, but he would not come

until I left. He would be short on my place and then there would be a

great transformation in company structure, with six of the seven top

managers to retire.

My colleague from the room was to have a business trip to

Bangladesh in May. He had to go to take the same vaccinations I

was. His arm ached and he had fever. When he returned, he said he

would not go to Africa for any sum. As he was arriving there and the

door of the plane was opened the heat was so oppressing he almost

fainted. Well, he could not drive my courage away.

During my last weeks intrigue has not rested. I have got a call

from a man, whom I did not know, but I would. He introduced himself

as one of my would-be colleagues at the Addis Ababa University. He

wanted to see me. I told him how to get to our home and waited.

He came with his wife. First I had the impression that they would

be helpful. Later I realised the opposite. But then they told us all we

wanted to hear. We put a lot of questions, they answered patiently.

In the meantime he also got what he wanted. It was he on the first

place to make my mission last only two years by convincing

Ethiopian officials that his colleague from the Budapest Technical

University would be a better lecturer than me. As a lecturer I could

have got extension to my term automatically. Thus I became an

expert for the Ministry of Transport instead of a lecturer. And in the

coming years it would be arranged that transport experts would go

home after two years, while lecturers would get their extension.

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Hope realised

After his visit I went to the TESCO and tried to be informed. I

learned that my host company in Ethiopia has been changed for the

ministry. (I did not know then about the intrigue mentioned above.)

At that moment I did not care about it, I was convinced I could do

what was expected of me.

I got my vaccinations and was ready to leave. My flight has been

scheduled to June 18, but, as I had arranged my leave from the

company and went to take my passport and money, I was told the

Ethiopian Airlines cancelled their Frankfurt-Addis Ababa flight that

week. The next flight would be one week later. I spent the week in

my flat at home. Heat from weather was overwhelming and I did as

little physically as I could and tried to get acclimatise to the African

heat even more intense (then I didn't know that, because of the high

altitude, in Addis Ababa there is only 65 degrees F all the year

round). The week of waiting has passed and I went to take my place

on the air-plane. For that week's flight another expert has been

given the pass. He was selected for the Addis Ababa Ministry of

Construction. We first met in the vaccinating station and after that at

our “mother”, the executive taking care of us in mission.

The first leg of the trip has been to Frankfurt-am-Main. It was

undertaken by our national airlines, the last place to hear our own

language. The flight was somewhat more than one hour, and we

have got our lunch on the plane. The Ethiopian plane was due early

afternoon, but something was out-of-order. The information desk

forecast it for about midnight, but our time could not have been

utilised as we had no visas and on the airport there was no way of

securing one. There was another problem. About 150 pounds of

baggage has been with me and the cloakrooms have been closed

because of the latest terrorist attacks all over the world. There was

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Hope realized

only one way: to wait and have an eye on the baggage.

Even the information service was faulty -- or too careful --. First

our gate number has been given false, and we had to move with all

the baggage a quarter of a mile to the actually right gate. It all went

as if we had been in the Soviet Union. The baggage has been taken,

but was placed beside the plane, and everyone had to lift his own

baggage onto the cart. The plane has been almost empty. As soon

as the Ethiopian folk music sounded and the air-conditioning began

to work I tried to sleep. The hostess gave me a pillow and a rug to

cover my body. The latter has not been needed, it was very hot. My

sleep would not come. I had my contact lenses on and also we have

got the first dinner. There were also my valuables in my pockets and

I was afraid for them.

The hostesses in their national dresses were extremely pretty.

Their face have been European, only black. I had learned much

about Ethiopia from a book of a compatriot who, as a jobless doctor,

accepted the offer of an Ethiopian ras (king) in 1921 to be his own

doctor. He stayed in the country 15 years, has been serving other

kings, even ras Tafari Makonnen for a time, before he became Haile

Selassie I. He left the country after the uprising against the emperor

in 1936 followed by the Italian occupation. I knew from his book that

the greatest uniform nationality in the country was the Amhara and

they had a Semitic origin. This is the reason, why their faces are

more European than Negroid. Only their hair is curly from the many

centuries of cross-breeding with Negroid people by chance.

On the plane my neighbour was from Addis Ababa and, how-

ever we changed addresses, we have never met once more. On the

plane he gave me very useful information. Our first stop has been in

Rome. We could stay in the plane during refuelling. It was a 40-

minute break, after that we flew over the Mediterranean to Cairo.

We have been shown how to save ourselves in the case of emerg-

ency. The late-night dinner -- or very early breakfast -- has not been

omitted. In Cairo it has been already dawn. We could see all the

tourist attractions from the town to the Pyramids. The colour of the

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sand was between grey and yellow. Again forty minutes, then take

off.

Khartoum. It looked like dry mud. Nothing to attract my eyes.

The air began to be hot. The next stop has been Addis Ababa. On

the last leg we got our lunch, but it was only a snack. It did not

interest me too much, I wanted to look down on the African

landscape. For a long time it looked like the Moon. There was no

trace of any life, only a stony desert, mountains, valleys, canyons.

Only their colour varied from grey, almost black through red, brown

to yellow. At last there was a strange announcement in the loud-

speaker, repeated in English: we were landing in Addis Ababa in 20

minutes. The land around the capital was fertile. There were

meadows with sheep, woods and small squares of cultivated land.

We have almost touched a mountain at least five thousand feet

higher than the surroundings (at that time I didn't know, but later I

could look it up, it was the Entoto) and after that the capital came

into view. With a big circle the plane avoided flying over the town

and landed.

My legs were numb for not using them so long and first I could

hardly make the few steps in the aisle. Slowly they got their life back.

Through the window the airport building could be seen. It was a

modern white, pretty one. On the sighting terrace there were

people. We were led to the entrance and there a big confusion

followed. Slowly I could realise directions, places. We went through

the passport control with no problem. Then the baggage had to be

received, but it was almost an hour, until they have been carried out

to us.

With the customs it was much slower. Although there were no

goods to declare as we took with us only our personal cloths, the

necessary equipment to live here for at least one year, there were

the locals arriving from abroad and it took a long time to check all of

their items. We could have avoided it, had our representative in

Addis Ababa, John S., not received a false telex about the

cancelling of our route again. We had to make our way through the

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Hope realized

coin or a note. I did not have any smaller piece of money as a five

dollar note, I gave it to the porter. I soon learned that he was over-

paid ten times.

Outside transit we could go to change money. By local coins I

could phone to Alex, the man, who had come to my home. He has

not been home, but his wife was and she phoned to John, the

representative. About 26 hours after that our plane took off at home,

we were met by him. Being young -- I was 38 then -- does not mean

you are not tired. Without sleep it was a long trip.

John took us to the hotel where our experts were living, until

moving into their flats. That time would be six weeks for me, the

shortest that far, and there was somebody for six months in the

hotel. It was the “Ras“ hotel in the very centre of the city, not far from

the circular square with the Ethiopian lion statue, where the north-

south running Churchill Road crosses the eastern highway leading

to Revolution Square then to the airport. Here the Ethiopian

Commercial Bank was situated that could confuse visitors with its

circular plan.

We have got our rooms almost next to one another on the first

floor. My room had a large bathroom, with a locked door on its other

side to the next room. It would cause me trouble later. On the reports

of Alex at home I expected a heavy rain in Addis, but it was a clear

weather that received me here. That time I did not know the time-

table of rainy season. As we were moving into town in John's car it

could have been in any town at home. Sometimes I saw people in

dark suits with a Girardi hat on their heads. They were ordinary men

from my country. My astonishment came only at sighting their black

faces. Drawing nearer to the centre we saw people in ordinary

Ethiopian dresses, women in shamma, men in gabby. The first can

be characterized as a diaper material wound up as a sari in India.

The latter is a similar textile, only made by multiple weaving to make

it thicker. It is worn as a poncho in South-America.

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The first days of an Aid-Expert

John left us with the invitation for lunch the next day. Soon Alex

appeared. He took us with him for dinner. The 3 p.m. rain has pass-

ed precisely and again there was clear weather, with the sun sett-

ing.

Most of the Hungarian aid-experts were living in a closed living

estate of 2-story apartment houses. Alex lived there with his family.

They had one son, about the age of that of mine. With the invitation

Alex was actually doing a mission, his wife instructed him to

squeeze all news out of us. During dinner we emptied our brains to

them and they gave further help in the form of advice. One of them

hit me at once, it was a useful piece. The woman said in the country

the venereal diseases represented 120 percent of the population.

How it could be? There were multiple diseases in the same individ-

ual and also the embryos, not born yet, had their share. It made me

forever incapable against a local girl.

We also spoke to them about events seen on TV at home, e.g.

the execution of the innocent young American journalist in

Nicaragua by a military man when he was lying on the ground. To

understand a person living far from home in Africa is hard for

someone who hasn't tried it. Life there is determined mainly by a

very close circle of people of identical nationality, in my case

Hungarian, who are living there, they know only what is happening

there. Even international periodicals raise only a limited interest,

and news from home come only if somebody brings them. It goes

without saying, today there are other pos