there, on the lemon tree. Immediately after
it, a bigger one with Tiger's appearance came.
After they threw each one a piercing glance,
106
then a spit, the first one broke into a run.
The other has turned a little and, as noting
was to do in lemon tree, left. Maybe she
heard the sad John Lennon's song about the
lemon tree.
* * *
We have noted and discussed about theterrible traf ic in Athens. I wonder how they
got here. I don't think the administration of
the city wanted so, but here it is. How? The
fact that public transport is poorly developed
induces the idea the access of middle class
toward the centre of the city has not been
stimulated. On The Contrary! Of you have a
car, it’s al right; if not, stay at the periphery
or move into counties. But people had a
dif erent opinion and turned to cheaper cars
107
and motorcycles. They would use even bikes,
but is impossible now. It would be far too
dangerous. The traf ic is terribly. Motorcycles
could be prohibited, but it was already too
late. Ii is democracy, al men vote, and the
politicians do not af ord to ignore the voters.
In this way, they al torment themselves their
life, regardless of wealth. And that would be
nothing, but the traf ic in such conditions
requires concentration and after such a nervous
consume, it remain a little energy for anything
else. Moving through the city is an activity
that requires the attention in the highest
degree.
It reminds me a happening in Vienna, in
1990. I was going to the house at one or two
o'clock in the night. The streets were almost
deserted. However, the traf ic light at an
intersection was working. In the front of me, a
108
gentleman was walking slowly. At the traf ic
lights, he stopped and sat quietly, waiting the
green colour. His discipline may seem
exaggerated, but – in fact – not discipline
counts this case. The man went out for a walk.
He was not in a hurry to reach somewhere.
Perhaps, on the contrary, he did not want to
get home too soon. His thoughts probably run
faster than his feet. And then, why to
troubled his meditation with sil y problems like
"To cross or not to cross the street?"
It has no relevant that the scene happened in
Vienna, although there is a dif erence of
mentality. Unlike German people, the Greeks,
who resemble which Romanians pretty much
from this point of view, consume much energy
making problems from nothing. Although clever,
being exhausted solving minor problems, they
109
no longer have the necessary resources for
more important ones.
* * *
The motorcycles are of al types: from mopedsand scooters and up to the most powerful, ful
of fril s, some more expensive than a car.
User’s preferences are easy to intuit. The
son-in-law of the owner, a serious gentleman,
has a scooter, although the financial situation
would al ow him a good car. Moreover, his wife
has a white one. He is, however, a practical
man. With the scooter he is doing even better
and does not have great problems in parking.
Demanding and useless powerful motorcycles
are preferred by those with few intel ectual
pursuits.
110
From my point of view, I would prohibit
motorcycles and I would develop public
transportation, but I am not a politician. As
one can see, the politicians should not deal
with serous af airs. Or, more precisely, the
access of the politicians to serious problems
should not be al owed.
* * *
The central market of Athens is worth fuly itsfame. Here, you can find excel ent products at
low priced. But attention! Sel ers are Greeks.
Yesterday, I bought grapes. I have chosen a
single bunch, as it was big enough for two
days. The sel er took it, thrown into a bag,
weighed it and told me the price. Everything
very fast. At home, I discovered that, in
addition to the bunch chosen by me, at the
111
bottom of the bag, there was at least a half of
a pound of grain. It is clear the bag was
before prepared, waiting for a customer like
me. Probably he has a bag of each range of
goods. On the one hand, I understand him:
the grains come of from the bunch and it is
hard to him to sel them separately. What put
me out of humour is the intent of playing a
trick to the customers. I can't even say that I
was hoaxed, because the grain were from the
same assortment and were not bad at al ,
maybe even better, being baked. I have not
found even a single berry damaged. But stil I
felt a little injured.
Athens, 30 September 2011
- - - - -
112
I have dreamed that I had a cosy chat with
VBT. Surprised by the absurdity of the fact, I
woke up. (I exaggerate, lately, I have had
normal meetings with her.) It is 3:30 now.
Although last night I was very tired, now I
feel rested after only a few hours of sleep.
Maybe changing the bed had a role: I find
myself in new housing.
Now that I woke up, I have to do something,
so I write. I thought the finishing which I
wrote yesterday about wil be a trifle, but I
was wrong. First of al , afraid of the sting of
spiders and other domestic animals (living in
man’s house), but un-domesticated, I
disassembled the two beds, washed with
detergent and I've fitted them in place.
Walking about the cabinets, I found that they
were not just clean, so I washed them as wel .
113
The fridge took me long time too. I had to
work at it most over an hour. It was ful of
hardened oil stains. The same around the
cooker! In the whole house, there are very
many long hairs, black and thin.
* * *
Last evening, the owner-lady brought me anew set of bedding. She probably noticed that
I had put on the bed new bedding, though in
a wardrobe there were some old ones, together
with two pil ows and a few towels, which I did
not use.
* * *
Yesterday, during a break from the work, I wasto the hotel to take the last things. (I had
114
brought the most of them, in order not to
carry too much al at once and because one
never know when it a strike here and public
transport does not work.) I thought to throw a
look on the park in the neighbours, about
which I wrote a little disappointed.
Consequently, instead to move down, I got
up.
Wel , the distance is not great. We have to go
up our street to the end (about 200 yards),
and about others 50 yards on another street
and reaching on the top. From there one
descends about 50 yards and arrives at the
park. It is actual y an appendix of the park,
which is huge. It is cal ed Attiko Alsos Park.
An arrow indicator specifies that the left
street leads into the district named of Galatsi.
115
And, if I was on the other side of the Hil , I
thought to get down from there to the centre,
though I was not sure about the route and I
didn't have any map to me. As the man of
mountains I knew that, going on the thread of
water, you get at the foot of the mountain.
The risk was to go dawn the slope on the other
side and to get away. But, the position of the
sun was saying me that the direction is good.
I was puzzled when a road-indicator shows the
opposite direction. I have stayed consistent to
my principles and I ended up perfectly. The
pointer probably was intended to drivers, in
order to avoid clutter on the street, but
indicate a longer route. (What does it matter
when you go motorized? But I was walking.)
The road is even nice, maybe a little longer,
because the slope is les steep.
116
In some places, Athens is very lovely.
This was the report of yesterday. Now I try
to take a nap until morning.
Athens, October 1, 2011
- - - - -
I wrote you yesterday that the park behind
the house is far away. What I seen is like an
island in the vicinity of a continent. It is
actual y a large hil , and rock I saw was a clif
hampering me to see the hil . At the top,
there is a church (I think it's a monastery)
and a water-reservoir. The whole hil is
studded with pipes sprinkler, which they
sprinkle the forest with, in the event of fire,
or preventive, the vegetation being very dry,
117
especial y on the top. Only the bottom it is
green. As you climb it is more and more dry.
A trail snakes up top, where only the view is
interesting. But, at the bottom, there are
benchs and shows like a park. Toward the top,
it is wild like on the mountains. You realize
that I did a real trip.
Birds are not there, but there are here next
to the house, and I am hearing them in the
apartment right now when I am writing.
I did not speak Greek yet but "How are you"
and "Thank you". I was too tired and cannot
concentrate. Instead, at a food-store not far
away there is a Romanian girl named Daniela.
She may help us.
118
I did not know why the street is deserted,
although it is 9 o’clock in the morning. In the
meantime, I cleared up; it is Sunday. So far I
have not seen any passer-by and I have not
heard any car or motorcycle.
I began to identify my neighbours. I wrote to
you that the owners live upstairs; at the
second floor, live one of her daughter, married,
with their three children. The elder is a little
girl, going to school, first class and two twins
of about three years. Other daughter, Amalia,
lives in England. She is to leave on Thursday.
In the demy-basement, lives an English
woman. She lives in Greece because her ex-
husband is Greek; she came here and
remained. Now, she teaches England language.
She is not just single: two smal dogs keep her
company. She talks with them in English, but I
119
did not hear how they respond. Fortunately,
there are enough silent. Instead, there is
another dog at the second floor of the building
across the street barking every time when he
sees a confrere on the street. And has a voice
of the trumpet ... more than annoying! During
the evenings, when some people walk their
dog, the noise is terrible. Fortunately the
nights are quietly.
Most strange is the family living in the same
house with us, on the ground floor, the other
side of the entrance corridor. She is mother of
two smal children. About him I do not know
what to think; is the husband, ex-husband, or
only children’s father? He comes from time to
time and then they argue soundly. What
disturbs me a lot is that they slam the doors
and make much noise.
120
In the demy-basement, below them, just
moved an young family have just moved. About
them I did not even know anything. Probably
they are only tourists for a few days. Their
apartment was of ered to me as wel , at the
same price, although it is slightly bigger. I
refused, because I do not like the idea to live
at the basement and that the floor is by
marble. Ours has parquet at least in the
bedroom. In the meantime, I thought the
basement is not recommended because the
damp. However, here, in Athens, you can give
the moisture only if you dig below sea level,
but we are on the hil . On the other hand, the
ground floor has the disadvantage that an air
current flows under the doors, while in the
basement it does not occur. But, looking
through the window, you can see only the feet
121
of people passing on the street, which would
not be very agreeable. Anyway, there is
nothing to do now. Les jeux sont faits!
I noticed that, although the summers are very
hot, the Greek women – even some elderly
ones – wear long hair, mostly wrinkled, even if
some of them do not have money for shoes.
Athens, October 2, 2011
- - - - -
I walked up to Kipseli Squar, about five
hundred feet below. There are there more
many shops and restaurants and, as everywhere
in Athens, statues. Even in the square there
are two. One of them, right in the middle, is
dedicated to Konstantinos Kanaris. Even his
122
dresses are strange, the author wanted to
represent a fighter for freedom during the
Greek War of Independence; he was one of
them during his youth. Later on, he was
politician, admiral and even Prime Minister. In
this monument he is sitting on something
symbolizing a boat, on which is wrote
"elefteria". I know you know that elefteriá
means freedom, as in Jassy was signed the
Proclamation of Alexander Ypsilanti, who
organized “Filiki Eteria – Society of friends".
I don't know if you know that the “leftá”
means money. Its association with elefteriá is,
perhaps, important to Greeks. (Smile!)
“Lefter”, instead, there is only in Romanian
language and reflects the time when man learn
the value of money, as the means of the word
is penniless.) As for Kanaris, at Chios, on the
night of June 6/7, 1822 naval forces under
123
his command destroyed the flagship of the
Turkish admiral Nasuhzade Ali Pasha (or Kara-
Ali Pasha). In 1862, he was one of the few
War of Independence veterans that helped in
the bloodless revolution that deposed King
Otto of Greece and put Prince Wil iam of
Denmark on the Greek throne as King George
I of Greece. Under George I, he served as a
prime minister.
The second statue in Kipsely Square is at the
beginning of a pedestrian walkway, starting
from here. It is a bust and is dedicated to
Merkifis Spiros, former Mayor between 1899-
1914 and 1929-1934. The fol owing statue is
on the pedestrian walkway, a few metres later,
and represents a dog. It is so probably
because a lot of dog-owners come here in
order to al ow their dog to socialize each
124
other. On both sides of the walkway, there are
bars, cafés, confectioner's etc. On the middle
of the way, on a width varying between ten
and twenty feet, trees of dif erent species are
planted, among which palms could not miss.
There are also some pools of water, and –
final y - you guessed – a statue of another
Mayer is. His name is Kostas Kotzias. When
he was at the head of the town is not
specified.
The Greeks of today are striving to continue
tradition and to make statues. The modernist
ones are a few. Most are in classic style. They
can af ord, because are good at this, and their
statues are real y fine. Noting that many of
them are dedicated to some relatively recent
distinguished personalities for public services,
125
such as the mayors about who I have just
wrote.
Athens, October 3, 2011
- - - - -
I don't know if the Greeks truly have the
passion for trade, but surely have its pleasure.
On most streets there are shops. As smal a
street is, as many and smal shops are. Rarely
I see to have a customer. Typical y, the
merchant stands alone, from morning til night,
every day, sometimes on Sundays as wel . His
business may not be a prosperous one. Perhaps
even the word business is an exaggeration. You
may suppose that he stay there because it is
more enjoyable for him then in the middle of
his family. Financial resources necessary for
126
maintaining the family, remains a mystery for
me.
In the West, at the weekend, almost
everything is closed. In Athens, almost
everything is open.
In the West, merchandise stock is considered
damage. In Athens, smal shops are crowded
with merchandises, although the sales are only
in the shopkeeper’s dreams.
* * *
Last night, watching television, I saw a groupof nine singers of very dif erent ages playing
guitars at the mandolins of various shapes and
sizes. Al songs were from Greek folklore.
There was no conductor, and they rarely were
127
looking each other. Each one was being focused
on its instrument, although they do not sing
continuously, but come in certain moments,
like the instruments in a symphonic orchestra.
That means that they have a great sense of
the rhythm and a perfect knowledge of the al
orchestration of songs.
* * *
Romanian beggars, about whom they speak somuch in the country, are very few there. The
majority of them are children and can be
recognized by the only song they play: “The
Waves of Danube” by the Romanian composer
Ivanovich. In fact, it is more tortured than
interpreted. I don't know if they belong to a
single "organizations" or more. As they have
the same song in their repertoire it is an
128
argument for the first variant. Also, I saw two
bands of adults. They were singing wel , one of
them just very wel , especial y jazz music.
Although are gypsies, they wear normal
clothes. Multicoloured skirts women I never
saw so far.
There are, instead, young Greeks of 20-25
years old, who do ask you imperatively for
money. Usual y, they do it in the vicinity of
restaurants.
Athens, October 4, 2011
- - - - -
Notice of the day
There is in our genetic code instincts that we
ignore, sometimes even strive to remove them
129
as soon as we observe their manifestation. I
wait the trol eybus for several minutes and
observe in the station a little boy, able to
stand up, but not to talk. I draw the
conclusion that he has about two years. After
he gets from his mother a multicoloured toy,
he pul out its handle and rummages with him
on the asphalt of the sidewalk. When he
considers that it picked up suf icient material,
he puts the handle into his mouth and sucks
it, as if it wants to test the taste of harvest
from which has just drawn a sample. The
mother observes, takes the toy and, of course,
the child cries. Not for long. The mother
begins to chat with another lady; the boy
steals the object and repeats the manoeuvre.
Obviously his goal is to taste the "savours" of
the road with his tool.
130
In the past, he probably tasted other
materials as wel , but they have been banned.
Nobody had taught him to do such a thing.
These are him atavistic instincts. To solve the
problem, the mother took him in her arms. I
admired her strength. We expected the
trol eybus long time; my smal bag of not more
than three kilograms had begun to seem me
unbearably heavy. The lady continues,
however, to take the baby in her arms, without
giving signs of fatigue, although she certainly
was. In the end, the trol eybus came and we
al boarded. She was the last one; young
people first. Greeks can be as friendly, as
thick-skinned, sometimes at the same time.
* * *
131
Fortunately, the windows of buses are large,
stay open almost permanently, the air
movement is intense, so that the atmosphere is
endurable. There are not finical ladies that
close the windows, for fear to not fal their
false eyelashes.
* * *
Here is a disconcerting denomination: Polis
Parking. The confusion comes from the mixture
of Greek with English. It is not parking for the
police, but a public one, as "póli" means the
city. The word policy comes from here too; it
refers to the problems of the city.
So, a townsman should be a polite man, a man
of the city, assuming that this is an honest