I had just spent a week in the Mosel River valley celebrating Octoberfest with the Germans by drinking wine and eating bread and cheese with them. The Krauts I talked to said that this was nothing when compared to the celebrations in Munchen so I decided to hitch over there and check it out. German's are funny about hitchhikers. When one picks you up they start speaking Deutsch with you and if you don't speak the language, they either stop right there and tell you to get out or they become your friend instantly. They’ll even feed you then take you home to meet their family letting you spend the night.
The strangest ride I got here was with 2 nuns. They stopped and in German asked if I want a ride. I answered in English I did so the driver switched to English and told me to get in back. Once I was in she then told me they were only going about 30 kilometers and would be happy to give me a ride but I would have to recite “Hail Mary” with them for the entire ride. I told them politely that I didn't know that chant. They both just smiled at me saying it was easy to learn and they'd be happy to teach it to me. So okay, why not? It was fairly short and easy to learn. So after I had it down to their liking the driver put the car in gear and down the road we go all saying our “Hail Mary's” for about the next half hour without let up. The nun then pulls over and tells me this is where they turn off so good bye. I thank them, get out and watch them drive away still chanting “Hail Mary Full Of Grace.................
It only took two days to get to Munich so when I got there Octoberfest was still in full swing. The whole city was drinking huge steins of beer, eating sausages and big pretzels with mustard and listening to Um-Pa-Pa bands all day and late into the night so I joined right in. While I was in the Mosel Valley, I slept in the vineyards but in Munich, I crashed in a building that was under construction. On the first night the night watchman saw me sleeping and woke me up then asked what I was doing there. I told him in my very bad German that I was just too poor to afford a hotel. He shrugged and told me in his very bad English to just be gone before the sun came up and not to leave any trash behind. After that whenever I saw him, I’d always wave but he'd just go, "Jah, Jah" then walk away. I had a fine time there partying with the people, drinking and singing but although they all were outwardly friendly towards me none of them asked me home so when it ended I hit the road bound for Vienna.
I got a ride out of town with a guy going to the airport. After he dropped me off I was standing on the road when an old BMW with a young good looking blond woman driving stopped and asked where I was going. I told her and she said in very good English that she lived in a small village about an hour away and I was welcome to join her that far. I thanked her and got in. While she drove we chatted. I told her my story, then she told me hers and that her name was Juta. She lived in a socialist artist commune with her two husbands and a half dozen other Red activist, which she said, was the scandal of the entire village. She laughed and said that if their commune ever left the village then the locals would have almost nothing to gossip about. She asked if I was socially active and I told her only if smoking dope and being outrageous counted. Then I said that I was really interested about her and her two husbands because I had tried a few manage a trois in my time and none of them had lasted more than a month. She told me that her 3-some was almost five years old and it worked like this: Deter was her main husband who she shared a room with and slept with most nights. But once or twice a week Klaus who played guitar and loved music more than anything else in the world, would ask her to join him in his bed. She'd tell Deter that she was spending the night with Klaus who'd say it was okay with him and to enjoy herself. To me this was not a true manage a trois. In all the ones I had been in we all slept in the same bed and had sex with each other at the same time but hey, whatever works. She told me that her two husbands made Danish Modern furniture and that she and another woman in the commune were potters. The rest of the residents all did various arts to support themselves and the commune, and in their spare time worked for the Green Party. By the time we got to her village we had become friends and she asked me if I wanted to spend the night at the commune. I gladly accepted.
Juta pulled up to a big two story brick house surrounded by a field of grass. We went in and she showed me around introducing me to the other members of the commune who were home. She told me that Deter and Klaus were in the city selling a shipment of furniture that day and probably wouldn't be home until late. She asked what I would like to do so I told her I’d like to take a shower. She showed me the bathroom, which was a big room with a toilet, sink and tub with a showerhead but no curtain. I asked her about it but she told me not to worry about it then left. I got my towel and soap out of my pack, undressed, got the water going then got in and soaped up. Not three minutes later in comes Juta, she walks over to the tub not saying a word, just staring at me and I think, 'oh boy, looks like some fun to me' smiling at her.
After a moment, she undoes her skirt but then she starts walking backwards until she's in front of the toilet, there she pulls down her skirt and panties, sits on the toilet and pees, all the time staring at me and not saying a thing. When she finishes she stands up, pulls up her panties and skirt, flushes. Then she walks out of the bathroom without a word.
‘Wow, what the hell was that all about’, I think while finishing my shower.
When I'm done instead of getting dressed, I just dry off then walk then still naked, I go out of the bathroom, walk down the hall and into Juta’s bedroom where she is sitting on her bed. Perhaps here I should describe her, she looked to be in her late 20's, she was real tall and built, and had long blond hair. She was only a few inches shorter than me and probably out weighed me.
Anyway, when I walked in she looks up at me then says, "Jah, you would like something?"
I didn't say a word. I just stared at her as I walked over to her. She stared back not saying anything either, so I reached down and started unbuttoning her blouse.
She sees that I’m getting a boner then asks me, "What are you doing, you silly boy?"
But I didn't say anything.
After I got her blouse and bra off, I pushed her back onto the bed and unzipped her skirt then took them and her panties down.
After that we screwed for a good half hour never uttering a single word. When we were finished, I got up and left. Then I went back into the bathroom and got dressed.
When I came into the kitchen there she was, smoking a cigarette and drinking tea. She asked if I’d like some, acting as if nothing had just happened so I said, "Sure."
I stayed with in the commune a week and she never once even alluded to us having sex.
Deter and Klaus came home around 6 p.m. and she introduced me to them after which we all had dinner together. After I did the dishes, Deter asked if I would do them a favor and I said, "No problem, man. What?"
He told me there was an election coming up, that he had some flyers to hand out and would I like to help him.
I said, "Sure" so he, Klaus and me all grabbed an arm load of flyers, went outside and started passing them out. After a while he said that we should all separate each taking a neighborhood going door to door with the flyers then pointed and told me to go down a street, so I did. I’d knock on doors then hand a flyer to whoever answered. The person who would take it would then say something to me in German to which I would reply, "Ist ser gut!" then get the hell out of there before they could ask me anything else.
It took me until about 9 p.m. to get rid of all the flyers. By that time I was in the center of town where I saw a pub and thought a beer sounded real good.
I go in and right away knew it was going to be weird. The place is one big brightly lit room with like pick-nick tables. Everything was made of highly polished wood and on all of the walls are black and white pictures of young guys in Nazi uniforms each surrounded by a black wreath. There are only a couple other guys in the place. When I walk in there's complete silence, then one of the men calls to me in Deutsch so I answer in English. He switches to English and invites me to join him.
I do.
He orders me a beer then says, "I am the Police Chief for this village. Welcome. Now who are you and what are you doing here?"
I tell him that I'm staying at the Green Commune.
He scowls and says, "Ack, nothing but a bunch of communist" then launches into this giant tirade about "the longa the hair and the smoka the dope."
And I smile and nod but I’m thinking, 'here's a Fascist cop sitting in a Nazi bar bitching about something that's never harmed, let alone killed, anybody at any time in history. What a maroon!’
When I finish the beer he offers me another, but I decline telling him that I have to get back, it's late.
He tells me real friendly like, "Well, if you stay, come by anytime and we can have another nice talk."
I tell this psycho good night and never go to the pub again.
When I get back to the commune I tell them what happened and Deter says, “ Jah, he is nothing but a Fascist. In fact, this whole village is Fascist. It's better if you avoid them."
Yeah right, and he's the one who sent me out there.
Next morning at breakfast Deter asks me if I’d like to stay and help them out building furniture. They have a big order that they have to get out. I tell him I’d be glad to help out. He and Klaus show me their workshop and what to do. Klaus cuts out the pieces, I sand them then Deter assembles the pieces, lastly we all shellac them. The furniture in real simple but also really nice looking. I spend a week with them but never venture into town again. And here's the funny thing, while I was there we drank a lot of beer but never once smoked any dope. That cop was really nuts.
One morning I get up and am horrified. There on the ground, is SNOW! And it's only mid October.
When I told Deter he says, "Ack yah, the big vinter is starting."
I told him that I had to leave, now, today. No way was I going to stay anywhere it snows.
He said that I would have to go as far south as Greece to get out and stay out of it. I told him then that is where I'm going.
At noon Juta drove me to the train station. I said thanks for letting me stay with them for awhile. She just waved it off, kissed me on the cheek then drove away.
I went to the ticket window and bought a ticket for Telesonika in northern Greece. A day later I got off the train and it was raining like hell. ‘Great’ I thought, ‘but at least it's better that snow.’
I slept in the train station with about a hundred other people that night. Next morning I shouldered my pack and hit the road, and had my mind totally blown. No one spoke English and the alphabet was not the one I knew. It was just like being a deaf and dumb, and illiterate too. Oh well, hope they understand my pantomime. Thankfully they did. Everyone was extraordinarily nice to me. It didn't even matter if I was in a city or in the country. Everybody bought me these tiny extremely sweet strong cups of coffee and gave me food. At night if I was in a city I slept in a church or train station, in the country any field or stand of trees would do. Hitching was easy. Anyone with a car and room would stop. Usually they spoke no English and weren’t going very far but I was there to experience the culture not go anywhere specific so I had a really good time. However, a week later my money started running out so I thought I’d go to Istanbul and check out Turkey before returning home.
I hitched toward the border but got stopped by the army who told me that they and Turkey were at war right now so I couldn't go any farther. I asked about the train and they told me it might be possible so I hitched to the nearest town, went to the train station and asked if I could get a train to Istanbul. They told me there was just one train a week and that I was in luck, because it left tomorrow night at 6 p.m. However, since they were at war the journey would take about 24 hours because first; the train was a local, and second; it would reach the border around midnight. There, the Greek engine and crew would leave then we would have to wait until the Turk engine and crew showed up somewhere between 4 and 6 a.m. Then they would then pull us into Istanbul 12 hours later. I said okay and bought the ticket.
Next evening, two young Canadians dudes, a Japanese girl, me with a lot of Greeks civilians and even more army guys boarded the Turkish bound train. Us four foreigners were given a whole car all to ourselves so the two dudes took a compartment, the Japanese girl named Hiroko took one and I took another. The Greeks took the remaining cars and the army guys got what looked like boxcars and off we chugged.
When the conductor came around I asked him why we had this car all to ourselves. He told me that we were the only ones going into Turkey. Everyone else was local or army and by the time we reached the border we would be the only ones left.
Then he told me, "Good luck. Those Turks are murderous bastards. I hope they don't kill you and you make it to Constantinople all right."
I thanked him then got out my sleeping bag and went to sleep listening to the clicky-clack. A little later there was a knocking at my door. When I opened it there stood Hiroko. She said that she was a bit frightened and asked if she could sleep with me.
I jokingly opened up my bag told her, "Sure, hop on in."
To my utter surprise and delight, she stripped off her clothes and snuggled in next to me.
When I told her how surprised I was she said, "You Americans are such prudes. In Japan sex is a natural body function. Do you want me to leave?"
I told her, no way! And we spent the night enjoying each other’s bodies.
When we got to the boarder the Greek train unhooked and the Greeks left. We sat on the tracks until just before dawn when the Turkish engine with its crew came and hooked up. But I sure didn't mind, Hiroko and I amused ourselves having a lot of fun. When the Turk conductor opened our compartment door and asked for our tickets then saw Hiroko and me in the same bag, he just smiled, punched our tickets and told us that we should get up and dressed because soon other people would be coming in. We did. The rest of the trip Hiroko and I talked. She told me that she was going to Israel to work in a kibbutz. I said that I was almost out of money and would probably be going back to the US. She asked why don't I join her. I told her the area was in way too much turmoil for me. We got to Istanbul just at sundown. When we got off of the train the Canuk dudes asked what we were planning to do. We told them we were getting a hotel room. They said it might be cheaper if we all got one together. Before I could say no, I wanted to be with Hiroko alone, she spoke up and said that sounded good.
After she bought a train ticket for Tel Aviv leaving the following evening, we all trooped out of the station looking for a cheap hotel. When we found a hotel I asked for a room with two bedrooms.
Hiroko elbowed me saying, "Don't worry about them."
Then she told the clerk that we wanted a room with one double bed and two singles. After we unpacked the guys suggested we go out, find some food then check out the city. This sounded like a good plan so after our bathes that's what we did.
Istanbul is really a neat city. It's huge, it's old and it’s colorful. The temples and bazaars are incredible and the streets are full of people, sights and sounds. It was the most exotic place I had ever been. On one street we were walking down a man saw us coming and ran up to us yelling something.
When he got up to us he told us, "No women are allowed on this street. She” pointing at Hiroko “will have to go back. Now!"
I said, "But I can see other women just over there."
He looked then said, "Those are not women. Those are whores. So unless she is a whore, she will have to leave. You men can stay if you wish, but she goes. Now!"
Hiroko said, “You boys go ahead and enjoy yourselves. I can find my own way back." then she smiled at us.
I told her that I’d stay with her but the Canadians guys said they would like to go check it out. We told them, see ya later and went back to the hotel.
Hiroko asked why I didn't want to go with them. I told her that I’d rather spend time with her. She just laughed then said, "You Americans."
The boys got back late and went right to bed so we didn't hear their story until morning. They said it was strange and exciting but because Hiroko was there wouldn't give up any of gory details.
Hiroko told them, "Only you Canadians are more prudish than the Americans." We all went out together, had breakfast then toured more of the city. When it started getting late we all went to the train station to see Hiroko off. She kissed us all good bye, got on the train then we all waved bye-bye as it pulled out. The boys and I went back to the hotel and spent the night talking. They told me they were leaving the next day for Ankara and were planning to go overland to India then fly home. Next morning we parted.
I wandered around the city. In one of the pie shops I met an Austrian hippie who told me he had a real cheap room with two beds in it, and that I could share it with him for half the rent. I told him that sounded good to me and moved in. Next day I went to the US embassy telling them I was broke so they loaned me a few bucks then wired my parents for enough cash to get me home which took a week, but I didn’t' mind. The hash in Istanbul was so cheap that it was almost free, and strong enough that after a few bowls all you wanted to do was stare at whatever was in front of you. The hippie I was staying with was an opium junkie but he also had a hash oil connection. We'd sit in the room, him stoned on 0 and oil, and me on hash and oil. The oil was the best I've ever had. It was dark and reddish and real thick. You'd dip jug the end of a cigarette in it then smoke it. A black ring would be right behind the fire for the whole time and by the time you got down to the filter, man o man, it had kicked your ass but good! Too bad it never got popular here.
A week later I got the money from home so I took the Orient Express back to France then flew from Luxembourg to New York City ending my European vacation. A short but very intense trip which showed me that foreign travel might sometimes be hard but it was always exciting and that I would be doing a lot of it in the future.